• Hello there guest and Welcome to Fox Body Mustangs forum, This forum is intended to be used by enthusiasts of the Fox body Ford Mustangs (1979-1993)!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

1993 4-cyl. To v8 302 swap! Eye candy ;)

Mnstr50

Guest
I thought about that also. Baumann engineering recommends a 2400 stall converter for AOD's...but I need to email them n ask them about the gears

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Keep in mind, the stall speed isn't what will influence higher highway RPM. It's the "lock-up" or "none lock up" converter. The none lock up, with a single piece input shaft will make for a stronger combination. It should also yield "quicker" E.T.'s in the quarter mile, but will be slightly slower (MPH) than a "lock-up". I've heard stories of guys damaging their transmissions with a lock-up converter, after repeated runs. The lock-up, however, is "better" for a street driven car. It allows the transmission to run cooler as well.

my plan is for a built trans (Lentech, PA, or Hughes), with a single piece input shaft, 10" or 12" C4 style none lock up converter, likely around 3,200-3,500rpm stall speed, and a PA "hold" style valve body. A dedicated trans cooler will also be a must at this point.
 

Mnstr50

Guest
new walbro 255/lph pump is installed, pending the speedo-cable (damaged during install) and the 95' Cobra brake master cylinder and booster to get installed. I noticed a slight leak from the master cylinder and figured it's a prime opportunity to step up to the larger bore MS.
 

Mnstr50

Guest
Will it fit with out modification?

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

The Cobra shared the SAME brake booster with the v6 and GT mustangs (94-95). The v6 and GT shared the same brakes all together. the Cobra, GT, and v6 have the same external provisions in terms of the master cylinder. The only difference is the larger diameter internal piston bore of the Cobra master cylinder. I think "Late Model Restoration" even discusses this modification has being common. It's a direct bolt in (if you have a 5-lug SN95 brake conversion. *at least the booster and master cylinder part).
 

Mnstr50

Guest
Ok, here are the figures, first I'd like to point out the weather conditions for the day;

Temperature at the dyno facility (AZ Dyno Chip) at 2:00pm: 108 degrees
Denisty Altitude (At Firebird international raceway- about 15 miles away and 4 degrees cooler): 4,520ft.

Fuel 91 pump gas

full emissions components are on (EGR- disabled, TAP/TAD- disabled, factory fuel cut off- disabled), factory cats in place, factory air box, factory belt drive components (Air pump, water pump, power steering pump, AC compressor). Factory HD fan clutch, and manual fan.

The car dyno'ed at 220rwph. They have emailed me the graphes, and I'll get those uploaded as soon as possible. A bit "lower" than I expected, but though the stock AOD, stock driveshaft, and stock cats, I'm not terribly upset. Keith (owner/operator) feels I should be able to pick up 20hp with an off road x-pipe and possibly see better numbers with better air.
 

lyonmt

Active Member
Taste is a huge factor. I had a 3rd Gen Camaro with a T5 & 3.73's and it felt nice to me, the guy that bought it from me said it was too tall and used 2nd gear to start off. *shrug*
 

Mnstr50

Guest
Taste is a huge factor. I had a 3rd Gen Camaro with a T5 & 3.73's and it felt nice to me, the guy that bought it from me said it was too tall and used 2nd gear to start off. *shrug*

You're right, I suppose it does come down to taste.
 

Mnstr50

Guest
220rwhp on a basically stock car and you're a little disappointed? What did I miss?

dude- it's not stock. LOL Although, I'm ok with the dyno showing the true values of a H/C/I swap (almost all else being stock).

mods: gt40 iron heads ported, Explorer intake ported, F303 cam, FRPP lifters, FRPP hardened push rods, FRPP oil pump and drive shaft, crane 1.7:1 roller rockers, 130# springs, titaniium retainers, 10-degree locks, 75mm TB spacer, 70mm TB, 76mm MAF, MAC equal length shorties. Stock air box, AFE air filter, STOCK cats, stock belt driven components (air pump, AC, steering pump, alternator), factory fan and HD clutch setup, stock trans, stock stall speed.
 

Mnstr50

Guest
SCT chip with tune for these sessions.

First run (not really a baseline, as some adjustments had already been made):
Horsepower-
190hp

Torque-
233tq

Temperature and dyno conditions at first run
upper left hand corner

4th run- Horsepower 221rwhp

4th run- Torque 268rwhp

temp. and conditions at 4th run
upper left corner
 

Barney

New Member
Nice work mate. But I must say I'm a little disappointed, your description is "Eye Candy" and I haven't seen a topless girl yet!

Ash
 

87_notchfox

just another notch among the rest lol...
dude- it's not stock. LOL Although, I'm ok with the dyno showing the true values of a H/C/I swap (almost all else being stock).

mods: gt40 iron heads ported, Explorer intake ported, F303 cam, FRPP lifters, FRPP hardened push rods, FRPP oil pump and drive shaft, crane 1.7:1 roller rockers, 130# springs, titaniium retainers, 10-degree locks, 75mm TB spacer, 70mm TB, 76mm MAF, MAC equal length shorties. Stock air box, AFE air filter, STOCK cats, stock belt driven components (air pump, AC, steering pump, alternator), factory fan and HD clutch setup, stock trans, stock stall speed.
Wat gears you running again?

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
 

87_notchfox

just another notch among the rest lol...
I ordered the 4.10's. Hopefully, I'll get them into the car in a few weeks.

*current gear set in the car is a mystery. Possibly 3.08's?
Oh ok Original gears to rear end or swapped? if not put a marking on the pinion and one on a wheel then turn it and see how many turns you get on the driveshaft

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
 

Mnstr50

Guest
Oh ok Original gears to rear end or swapped? if not put a marking on the pinion and one on a wheel then turn it and see how many turns you get on the driveshaft

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

The owner of the donor car (which the engine and driveline came out of) told me he had 3.73's in it. Which it definitely does not. I'm only seeing ~1,600rpm at 70mph (3.73's should show about 2,000rpm, and 4.10's should show north of 2,000rpm). I can look for a stamping in the ring gear, otherwise, I can also count the "teeth" on both the ring gear and the pinion to see what is in it currently (when it gets taken apart).
 

87_notchfox

just another notch among the rest lol...
The owner of the donor car (which the engine and driveline came out of) told me he had 3.73's in it. Which it definitely does not. I'm only seeing ~1,600rpm at 70mph (3.73's should show about 2,000rpm, and 4.10's should show north of 2,000rpm). I can look for a stamping in the ring gear, otherwise, I can also count the "teeth" on both the ring gear and the pinion to see what is in it currently (when it gets taken apart).
if not the lazy way...like I said Mark it and spin it...that's wat I did with mine to figure out my rear end gears

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
 

Mnstr50

Guest
if not the lazy way...like I said Mark it and spin it...that's wat I did with mine to figure out my rear end gears

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

I'm honestly not that interested in the existing gears, because it's not meeting my expectation. Is there a specific reason you're interested? Are you trying to compare to your current build? They'll be out of the car in a few weeks, so I'll know for sure at that point. Keep in mind, it's 105+ daily here in AZ, so if I can avoid crawling around underneath the car in this heat, I do. lol
 
Top