broncojunkie
Well-Known Member
Love it, man. That thing is CLEAN under there! Oh, and I have that same Craftsman toolbox, lol!
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1993 4-cyl. To v8 302 swap! Eye candy ;)
- Thread starter Mnstr50
- Start date
Mnstr50
Guest
One of the luxuries of these Arizona cars. They're bone dry. My other 4-cyl. notch is EVEN cleaner than this one!
broncojunkie
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I couldn't imagine having anything that clean around here. The rust is non-stop. Mud and salt.
Mnstr50
Guest
Just an update, I installed a UPR catch can a few weeks ago and the results are in:
Catch can's WORK. This is after possibly less than a 1,000 miles, but of a lot of hard driving. This is routed via the PCV valve.
Its touching the hood when the hood is closed, but I'll get a small bracket to set it lower.
Catch can's WORK. This is after possibly less than a 1,000 miles, but of a lot of hard driving. This is routed via the PCV valve.
Its touching the hood when the hood is closed, but I'll get a small bracket to set it lower.
87_notchfox
just another notch among the rest lol...
have you dyno'd the car again since the gear swap? just curious...my wife bought wat my friend thinks is a 306 with forged internals a old set of tfs/kpi high ports, E cam no induction stuff yet for her swap on her coupe that i hope to get to when i get back of deployment next year. just want to see how much of a difference the 4.10's made if not i am going to stick with the 3.73 gears i got her...
Mnstr50
Guest
I haven't had the car on the dyno since the gear swap, but I would imagine the dyno software should be sophisticated enough to dial in a different rear-end gear. I'm mentioning this because you shouldn't gain any power from a gear swap. It really only gives you a mechanical advantage.
Mnstr50
Guest
Also, I have a recent update (which is a major revision);
I was taking a trip from Phoenix to Los Angeles, and the automatic gave up the ghost. Blew out OD, and gradually, the rest of the transmission started to fail. I noticed when I had pulled over and sprayed auto trans fluid all over the rear bumper. I have been told the valve body needs to be calibrated for rear-end gears (which I hadn't done).
Anyway, I shopped around for several weeks looking for the "right" automatic to use and I just couldn't get a package together that would be less than $4,000 (before install). If i had some crazy package, in a show-quality car, I wouldn't mind spending $4k on it, but this is a budget minded build, and $4K is just too much for me to justify (behind essentially a 93' cobra spec motor with a cam). After trying to "settle" for lesser combinations (bigger torque converter, lower stall speed, non lock-up, etc.) I was still looking at $2,500-$3,000 (excluding install). Long story short, I decided to abandon the automatic. I purchased all the components needed for a t5 swap, and the car is now going manual.
My thoughts on the AOD; it's an awesome transmission, with a great deal of potential. At the very least, you need a good valve body, and stall converter to wake them up. I learned how to down-shift to 2nd gear (if needed), as well as manually up-shifting it through the gears. I don't knock the AOD's, it just needs a lot more help than I'll currently willing to spend to make it a serious contender. Sure, the T5 isn't going to be any stronger (factory torque rating), but it's a lot simpler to service, and replace if needed.
I was taking a trip from Phoenix to Los Angeles, and the automatic gave up the ghost. Blew out OD, and gradually, the rest of the transmission started to fail. I noticed when I had pulled over and sprayed auto trans fluid all over the rear bumper. I have been told the valve body needs to be calibrated for rear-end gears (which I hadn't done).
Anyway, I shopped around for several weeks looking for the "right" automatic to use and I just couldn't get a package together that would be less than $4,000 (before install). If i had some crazy package, in a show-quality car, I wouldn't mind spending $4k on it, but this is a budget minded build, and $4K is just too much for me to justify (behind essentially a 93' cobra spec motor with a cam). After trying to "settle" for lesser combinations (bigger torque converter, lower stall speed, non lock-up, etc.) I was still looking at $2,500-$3,000 (excluding install). Long story short, I decided to abandon the automatic. I purchased all the components needed for a t5 swap, and the car is now going manual.
My thoughts on the AOD; it's an awesome transmission, with a great deal of potential. At the very least, you need a good valve body, and stall converter to wake them up. I learned how to down-shift to 2nd gear (if needed), as well as manually up-shifting it through the gears. I don't knock the AOD's, it just needs a lot more help than I'll currently willing to spend to make it a serious contender. Sure, the T5 isn't going to be any stronger (factory torque rating), but it's a lot simpler to service, and replace if needed.
87_notchfox
just another notch among the rest lol...
i know gears dont give you more power just a better jump on the line. but just wanted to see if it affected it when the car made peak HP/TQ
Mnstr50
Guest
Unfortunately, I didn't do any runs after. The initial dyno session happened to be in super hot weather, and it only got hotter there-after. It's barely started to cool down in AZ, but I'll make an attempt to get it on the rollers with the t5 and 4.10's (time constraints and distance is an issue for me, the tuner I have work on the car is well over an hour from me one way).
FWIW,
Rear end gears won't move your power curve at all. As stated before it is simply mechanical advantage, I.e the motor can get to the power band quicker and essentially it becomes easier for the car to put power to the tires.
As a simple example, break down what happens when a car gets a new ring and pinion, it accelerates quicker, has quicker ETs at the track etc. if in our example the car makes peak hp at 5800 and peak tq at 4700, those numbers and curves won't change. But say with stock 2.73s it takes the car (in 1st gear) 2 seconds to reach 4700 rpm, with 4:10s now it can accelerate and get to that rpm in say 1.5 seconds. That's a real simple explanation but hope that helps
Rear end gears won't move your power curve at all. As stated before it is simply mechanical advantage, I.e the motor can get to the power band quicker and essentially it becomes easier for the car to put power to the tires.
As a simple example, break down what happens when a car gets a new ring and pinion, it accelerates quicker, has quicker ETs at the track etc. if in our example the car makes peak hp at 5800 and peak tq at 4700, those numbers and curves won't change. But say with stock 2.73s it takes the car (in 1st gear) 2 seconds to reach 4700 rpm, with 4:10s now it can accelerate and get to that rpm in say 1.5 seconds. That's a real simple explanation but hope that helps
Mnstr50
Guest
I know it's been a long time, but I figured I'd hop in and mention the latest;
Dyno'ed at 235rwhp and 278rwtq with the plugged cats, and all drive components.
Replaced the rear cats and passed emissions
Rebuilt the T5 with billet keys on 3-4, carbon syncos and ATF fluid.
Went with a fidanza alloy flywheel, added a Steeda tri-ax shifter.
Installed a MAC prochamber, installed underdrive pullies, installed shorter belt to bypass the airpump, and without any changes to the tune, she put down
265rwhp, 300rwtq!
Still have the mechanical cooling fan and HD clutch. Upgraded to a 3G alternator and harness in preparation of an electric fan.
Dyno'ed at 235rwhp and 278rwtq with the plugged cats, and all drive components.
Replaced the rear cats and passed emissions
Rebuilt the T5 with billet keys on 3-4, carbon syncos and ATF fluid.
Went with a fidanza alloy flywheel, added a Steeda tri-ax shifter.
Installed a MAC prochamber, installed underdrive pullies, installed shorter belt to bypass the airpump, and without any changes to the tune, she put down
265rwhp, 300rwtq!
Still have the mechanical cooling fan and HD clutch. Upgraded to a 3G alternator and harness in preparation of an electric fan.
Awesome! Found some power for sure!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
87_notchfox
just another notch among the rest lol...
very nice...cant wait to tune mine when i get home
Mnstr50
Guest
I'm usually not a fan of underdrive pullies (especially after hearing some horror stories) but after some research I decided to purchase the steel version of the MARCH underdrive pullies ($60 new), and let me tell you, the bump in power is for real! I even left the stock alternator pulley on, so Im only running the crank and water pump pulleys.
I felt the same gain switching to the MAC prochamber (seat of the pants as I did one at a time).
We kept the AFR safe at 12.2-12.5
I think an electric fan should be good for another 5rwhp (modest estimate from what I've been told).
I felt the same gain switching to the MAC prochamber (seat of the pants as I did one at a time).
We kept the AFR safe at 12.2-12.5
I think an electric fan should be good for another 5rwhp (modest estimate from what I've been told).
Mnstr50
Guest
here are the dyno graphs that I forgot to post, this was without any adjustments to the tune, and the only modifications being the MAC prochamber and the underdrive pulleys;
very nice..
Mnstr50
Guest
So here is the most recent evolution of this car, after running the car with NGK TR55 copper plugs with the standard gap of .054 for the previous dyno runs, I decided to get a little more creative with making power. I've had a handful of supercharged cars, but it's time for something different. After some research, I figured it was time to play with nitrous! I purchased a ZEX black out kit (82023B), which is universal kit for v8 cars, and I decided to set it up for a 100-shot. The reason why I decided on this particular kit is because it's the most straight forward, and it uses the TPS position for WOT. This makes install a lot easier in my opinion and allows for the kit to be "hidden" (more on that later). My learning curve with nitrous only took about a night, as I realized that bottle pressure is CRITICAL for optimal performance of the nitrous system. For this reason I decided to get ZEX's "tuner kit" which includes a purge solenoid (not installed) a blow down tube (not yet installed) and the bottle heater. I installed the bottle heater (with is thermally controlled) and it seemed to take 30-45min to get the bottle pressure to 800-psi (optimal operating pressure s 1000psi, the standard solenoids on this system will "lock" if more than 1100psi is applied, but manipulating the pressure can result in a harder "hit"). Even with only 800-psi I was able to get a race with a 2012 Camaro SS. We did three pulls from a rolling start (as 4.10's, 225 series tires are useless from a dig) and I handed the guy his rear-end all three times!! He wasn't too happy with the loss, and he hand no idea I was on the bottle! lol, After the race, I contacted ZEX about the bottle heater, and I ended up getting a pressure controlled bottle heater (after also hearing some of the trouble other people had with the standard heater). The pressure controlled heater is much quicker to get the bottle to temperature, and it's on a switch (875psi on, 1000psi off) which can get adjusted up to 1150psi (I believe) Here are some pictures of my install;
The C&L elbow was added two weeks ago, but I had the nitrous plumbed into the stock rubber elbow prior to this, and it was a total sleeper look.
you have to look HARD to see the solenoid (black box) hidden right behind the stock airbox.
notice both the position of the nozzle, but also the TPS signal wire, which I covered in wire loop;
the arming switch and the bottle heater switch are both tucked high on the kick panel, and not easily visible from even a driving position;
here is the bottle, with the heater wrapped around it, and the pressure gauge (excuse the wires currently, ran out of loom) ;
here is the pressure switch, and if you look hard enough you can see the relay mounted to the "cross brace" behind the rear seats;
here is how I switch between the nitrous and the NA tunes on the SCT chip
No dyno runs on the nitrous. I switched the spark plugs to TR6 NGK coppers, that are a heat range cooler than stock, with a standard gap of .034
The C&L elbow was added two weeks ago, but I had the nitrous plumbed into the stock rubber elbow prior to this, and it was a total sleeper look.
you have to look HARD to see the solenoid (black box) hidden right behind the stock airbox.
notice both the position of the nozzle, but also the TPS signal wire, which I covered in wire loop;
the arming switch and the bottle heater switch are both tucked high on the kick panel, and not easily visible from even a driving position;
here is the bottle, with the heater wrapped around it, and the pressure gauge (excuse the wires currently, ran out of loom) ;
here is the pressure switch, and if you look hard enough you can see the relay mounted to the "cross brace" behind the rear seats;
here is how I switch between the nitrous and the NA tunes on the SCT chip
No dyno runs on the nitrous. I switched the spark plugs to TR6 NGK coppers, that are a heat range cooler than stock, with a standard gap of .034
wow, very nice...
Mnstr50
Guest
There is already something else in the works (it never really ends anyway).
It's kind of cool, this car has essentially been a rolling lab test. motor swaps, trans swaps, NOS, bolt ons, etc.
Mnstr50
Guest
stay tuned for version 2.0, coming soon! lol