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I have a question

fastronald

New Member
Can some of you measure the width between your Rear Shock towers where they meet the trunk floor............does your car measure out at 38 1/2" distance? this is the angle where tower and trunk floor actually meet.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
I can get you a measurement tomorrow, but i have earlier cars. There may or may not be a slight difference between them and the later models. I can measure my buddy's 88 too, though. He lives just down the road.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
My 82 is a capri. No difference in chassis, from what I understand. Just different fenders, bumpers, etc. However, there may be slight differences between certain years. For instance, the earlier cars had smaller fuel tanks. The spare tire area inside the rear hatch was altered slightly in the later models. This minor change could extend to the inner hatch area...between the shock towers. The later v8 models also had quad shocks. I don't think that required a change in the chassis dimensions, but who knows. They made this particular chassis from 79 to 93 (and very similar in 78 and 94-98). I see a lot of info out there that pertains to the 87-93 models and they have no idea that the 79-86 (often 79-82 and 83-86) are drastically different. A good example is the clutch assembly. The 79-81 was completely different! No self-adjusting quadrant. Cable completely different, but still works fine with the t5 even though that didn't come along till 83! I own two 79's, two 82's, and an 86. I couldn't tell you how many times I've found erroneous info online!
 

fastronald

New Member
I guess if I pursue my idea of building a true "Bolt In" rear shock tower brace.....it would be a case by case basis as the distance requires. Use 3'/4 i.d. pipe and angle stock with 3/8" grade eight bolts.
 

347HO

Member
I guess if I pursue my idea of building a true "Bolt In" rear shock tower brace.....it would be a case by case basis as the distance requires. Use 3'/4 i.d. pipe and angle stock with 3/8" grade eight bolts.
I suggest a "double adjuster" system.
The correct distance can be attained easily by turning the center section.
 

fastronald

New Member
Thanks.......I may try that..would use a heavy threaded rod and jam nuts to secure it in position..then line it up and drill two mounting holes and a bolt in. If this works out well.....IK would offer you one to test for the price of shipping.
 
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347HO

Member
Thanks.......I may try that..would use a heavy threaded rod and jam nuts to secure it in position..then line it up and drill two mounting holes and a bolt in. If this works out well.....IK would offer you one to test for the price of shipping.
May I suggest you use "thinwall" chromoly tubing with "weld in" threaded inserts?
1ea. Insert right hand threaded, 1ea. Insert lefthand threaded on the opposite end of tube.
Will be very light, very strong.

And thank you for your offer, however my setup has a full chromoly cage incorperating 4 corner bracing to the chassis.
 

fastronald

New Member
If I take advantage of your idea....using the threaded rod in the center.....allows adustabilty and a cost savings using a smaller box....weld one end to the tube and a jam nut on the other. I had thought of something similar using rod stock and a set screw to hold it in place.
 

347HO

Member
I'm unaware of a double adjustable threaded rod large enough for what you want to do.
This is why I suggested a chromoly tube with threaded ends. Its much easier, cheaper to find, buy left and right hand threaded ends which you can weld to your strut brace plates.
 

fastronald

New Member
I respect you opinion and advice....but the intent is for street driven cars and additional threaded pieces/chrome moly...is not cheaper to buy and assemble
 
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