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Dark Horse

This is my new project it's my Dad's original owner 91 GT he finally passed it down to me. This is the first car I learned to drive manual lol. My dad was always about handling and hiting the corners hard so I've tried to keep the same theme.
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I recieved the car with no motor or tranny my dad decided to do a John Force burnout for his buddies at work and blew the 260,000 mile engine.
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Started taking out the stock K-member for obious reasons lol.
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Finally got the K-member out it was a heavy s.o.b.
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Here's the new A.J.E. K-member it's really nice I have the U.P.R. complete kit on my coupe and it's pretty crappy no where near the quality of A.J.E.
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The new energy suspension bushings on the stock A-arms I wanted to have a solid foundation for the car being full weight. I'm not too fond of the tubular A-arms especially when breaking.
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The driver's side all bolted back up I cut a coil off the stock spring I like to keep the stock spring because of all the weight lost on the front end from the k-member and aluminum heads seems to work just fine no need for a progressive spring.
 
This is my new project it's my Dad's original owner 91 GT he finally passed it down to me. This is the first car I learned to drive manual lol. My dad was always about handling and hiting the corners hard so I've tried to keep the same theme.
View attachment 273
I recieved the car with no motor or tranny my dad decided to do a John Force burnout for his buddies at work and blew the 260,000 mile engine.
View attachment 268
Started taking out the stock K-member for obious reasons lol.
View attachment 269
Finally got the K-member out it was a heavy s.o.b.
View attachment 270
Here's the new A.J.E. K-member it's really nice I have the U.P.R. complete kit on my coupe and it's pretty crappy no where near the quality of A.J.E.
View attachment 271
The new energy suspension bushings on the stock A-arms I wanted to have a solid foundation for the car being full weight. I'm not too fond of the tubular A-arms especially when breaking.
View attachment 272
The driver's side all bolted back up I cut a coil off the stock spring I like to keep the stock spring because of all the weight lost on the front end from the k-member and aluminum heads seems to work just fine no need for a progressive spring.
Looks to be a real nice ride you have to start with. Can you tell me what the issue would be when braking with the tubular control arms versus the originals with newer bushings? I am still shopping to what k-member to use on mine. I will have aluminum heads, lighter k-member as well.
 
Well I shouldn't have compared the two K-members the way I did. The UPR kit was mainly for drag racing it consist of a light weight design and the bushings on the control arms are pretty weak to say the least. Most kits use a coil over design I personaly don't like the ride quality that's not to say others will. If you compare the Maximum Motorsports K-member to a stock unit they're pretty close in weight because of reinforced design for road racing. All I can say from my experiance with UPR products is they're all junk not just K-members the bumpsteer kit the coil over kit and the caster camber kit it's all pretty much crap:(
 
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I'm also a firm beleiver in Pan Hard Rods this is my coupe I'm gonna be using one on Dark Horse too. It's made by Kenny Brown you can't use tail pipes with this unit installed. I've changed the end links to solid originally it came with a bushing style. I've never had torque box issues with these installed.
 
I had UPR coilovers and bumpsteer kit on my green coupe without any real issue. However miles were limited (under 2K miles driven) and the parts were new units manufactred in the last 2 years. I did have an older set of their caster camber plates on my old GT that ended up getting play in the upper bearing. My newer set thats on my green coupe has a better designed bearing plate and has had no issue. Its a coilover setup too. My QA1 k member is stout as well as my UPR arms never had any issues there. I would imagine a track car would take more abuse than my street car however I flog the piss out of all my cars every chance I get :D.

Sorry for the thread jack Dark Horse. Great build so far thats a nice clean GT. Awesome that it has been in your family for so long. Lots of memories and sentimental value. Keep us updated as the build progresses.
 
No worries about a thread jack lol my stang buddy for years also has the UPR kit but he also puts few miles a month on his mostly track. I buy the same parts and break and rebuild them while his have no issues. I sometimes feel like a R&D guy for aftermarket parts I put close to 25,000 miles a year on my daily driver. I've found like most people have that aftermarket parts don't have the longevity they should but there are good quality parts out there also usually price reflects lol. I just try to keep it simple, reason why I'm using the stock A-arms (My UPR coil over kit I've noticed the spring rubs the threads for the adjustment nut, so much that it's rubbed the threads smooth) I know there are better kits out there but maybe not also. With the miles I plan on putting on I don't want any issues over a few pounds. It's been so long since I've been back in the game with a new project I just found out that Kenny Brown went out of business in 2008 wow lol. I remember when I bought my UPR K-member kit in BradentonFL, D&D Industries had a tent right next to UPR's both their kits where $500.00 for everythink (K-member, A-arms and coilover kit) I heard they revised the kit which is the unit my buddy has. I've looked it all over and still wasn't all too impressed it seems he also has the spring contact issue I have there is already noticable contact on the threads.
 
Well I shouldn't have compared the two K-members the way I did. The UPR kit was mainly for drag racing it consist of a light weight design and the bushings on the control arms are pretty weak to say the least. Most kits use a coil over design I personaly don't like the ride quality that's not to say others will. If you compare the Maximum Motorsports K-member to a stock unit they're pretty close in weight because of reinforced design for road racing. All I can say from my experiance with UPR products is they're all junk not just K-members the bumpsteer kit the coil over kit and the caster camber kit it's all pretty much crap:(
Thanks Dark Horse I will keep that in mind. The UPR piece does seem to be good for lightweight use on the track, but using it for street use and longevity without issues along the way may be another thing and may not work in my particular situation of mostly heavy street use. Your experience tips will sure help in what to look for.
 
I had UPR coilovers and bumpsteer kit on my green coupe without any real issue. However miles were limited (under 2K miles driven) and the parts were new units manufactred in the last 2 years. I did have an older set of their caster camber plates on my old GT that ended up getting play in the upper bearing. My newer set thats on my green coupe has a better designed bearing plate and has had no issue. Its a coilover setup too. My QA1 k member is stout as well as my UPR arms never had any issues there. I would imagine a track car would take more abuse than my street car however I flog the piss out of all my cars every chance I get :D. Thanks again Phil for your useful tips on the K. Everyones chime in is really helping on the choices I am looking to use for my application. I think at this point I will be looking for a stouter Member like your QA1 or other brand of same strength for the street use. I don't know about the roads you all are used to driving on, but out here 36+ years of infrastructure neglect has taken a toll on our bridges and roads. Our potholes are more like bombing range craters in depth. ( a real test for my reaction time) I'm afraid I will need something a little more beefier than the lightweight UPR track piece after all for the heavy street use I intend for the car.
Don't get me wrong I am still looking to get the weight off the front, but not at the expense of having to do repairs or replacement to the member or control arms periodically due to heavy street use. I think even with either a beefier QA1 or M/M member set up, It may still be a pound or two lighter than stock, which is still better.

Out of all the foxes I have owned over the years, (and have owned many) I am doing a total different rotisserie build on the Cobra, These early cars were very light. Seeing how it is a solid, never bent, all original paint car and no sunroof or factory air, (for less weight and easy heater core replacement when needed) I want to leave the body all stock looking complete with stripes, but am going with a real lightweight approach to it using fiberglass hood, doors, hatch, lexan hatch window, possibly door windows (not sure yet), both aluminum bumper reinforcements, lightweight rear coilover suspension and front coil over,( for ride height adjustment mainly) with some lighter weight than stock advantage.

The car was already a console delete order car so the interior will be just the essentials for a normal stock look but no heavy carpet underlayment etc., and anything else I can do to shave some weight off inside. The lightweight stock seats already there and recaros are not as heavy as some of the stock seats of that year. This is an experiment for me as to how light I can pull this project off. I have always wanted to see (with all the new parts out there for them currently offered) how light I can make this beasty. I will also go with the single stock twin tailpipe tip exhaust unit out of the left side of the rear for the stock look, but with 3" size pipe for better breathing. With one muffler and cat for further weight reduction. My goal is max 2,400. lbs. total. My goal may be off but that is the minimum I am trying to place it at.

Oh yeah, I will be slimming down a little too, But that will have to wait untill after the holidays are over.

Sorry for the thread jack Dark Horse. Great build so far thats a nice clean GT. Awesome that it has been in your family for so long. Lots of memories and sentimental value. Keep us updated as the build progresses.
 
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I'm also a firm beleiver in Pan Hard Rods this is my coupe I'm gonna be using one on Dark Horse too. It's made by Kenny Brown you can't use tail pipes with this unit installed. I've changed the end links to solid originally it came with a bushing style. I've never had torque box issues with these installed.
I have looked at those. That sure looks to be the way to go for handling, but unfortunately I will need to use the stock twin tailpipe extension coming out from under the left side of the rear bumper cover for the stock look I am trying to obtain.
 
Nice work and nice car. That will be one awesome car when your done!!!
Thanks, I can't wait to get started on it once I get hooked up on the correct parts I am still deciding and searching for. I want to purchase and line up all parts to have ready to go before dissassembly. Plus I will need to fit all the glass body parts to perfection fit well before refinishing. As you know by your turbo experience resto that stage takes on a whole new life with additional cost and various little issues for completion in rotisserie format. After all of the expense of the car being completely refinished on the spit, I didn't want to start the large expense all over again buying all the parts at that time when I am exited on just putting it back together. That will give me time to forget the amount of money it initially cost for all of the updated parts purchased earlier. I'm sure I will need a little extra time to recover from the refinishing cost procees and buying all the little pieces required for reassembly. lol.
 

BANDITGT

Guest
I would like a panhard bar. I met this guy who swears by them. He says they are awesome on a fox. And help out a lot with handling


Sent from my drivers seat on my iPhone4 via Tapatalk
 
Wow that MM kit puts the KB one to shame I came across a forum thread from 2008 where the OP actually snapped the Panhard on his KB kit now I'm starting to see why. Awesome pic!!! I also had an issue where my fuel line touched the exhaust and melted the coating. I put some miles on it that way, one day on a drive to work I started smelling fuel really bad I knew it couldn't be that rich so I pulled over to check it out and found Niagara Falls!!! That was the last time I ran tailpipes.
 
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