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351w build help!!!

Their was the welds! The guy went therought the whole block with me, and then how would i go about switching a flywheel to it? Couse its a stick car not auto


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You can put a proper weight flywheel on it and it will be fine. The proper way is to buy the flywheel, and give it to the machine shop for the crank to be balanced with the flywheel and balancer. But it's not like it's going to blow up if you don't. That's high end work for a high performance application.
 
Okk sounds good. Thanks! Im getting it tommoro ill keep you updated


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Ao this is her! What do you guys think?


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Sorry i was in a rush earlyer! But i checked the bore, its .040 over, ive yet to measure the crank journal tollerance (any clue what it is?) and its been forsure balanced, but it does have a harmonic balancer or a flywheel?


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Are you talking about crank end play or bearing clearance? Bearing clearance is I believe .0015 or something. I'll have to look them up for sure.

Do you mean it doesn't have a balancer and flywheel?
 
Both! And nope neather, but the rotating assemblys been balance becouse theirs fresh drilled holes in both


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I'll look them up and get back to you in the morning. The bearing clearance should be fine being as its assembled. No need to untorque main caps to check it since it's fresh from the machine shop.

A crank can an is balanced without the two, but as stated before, if budget allows it's best to buy your balancer and flywheel and take the motor to the machine shop, let them pull the crank, balance the entire assembly and reinstall it. It will help ensure a long healthy life for your new bullet :)
 
I need some more advice on the good old cam/intake/exaust. I dont have any of it, as you know i got performer rpms, 2.02 intake, 1.60 exhaust. 10.3/1 compression i belive, and a holley 750double pumper. I also need valve springs, rockers(studmount) and push rods. i called comp cams qnd got alot of info on a can, he said he would email them to me. I decided to go woth a solid flat tappet. Im looking for lots f low end, and medium/lowish topend


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Victor jr. Intake will work very well with your heads and carb.

As for cam and valve springs. I will always advocate Ed Curtis at FTI. Give them a call, he will custom build you a cam and I honestly believe he is the best in the business of small block fords. He will give you appropriate valve springs as well. As for pushrods, you will have to get a pushrod measurement tool in order to know what length you need.
 
How long will it take for them to grind it? Becouse id like to have the engine mostely together and in te car befor it gets to cold to work on it, becouse i dont have a heated gurage and it will have to be moved to my grandpas house over the winter becouse my parents need their gurage. (yes i suck at spelling lol)


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You'd have to talk to them. I usually see people get them in around 10 days. I'm sure it depends on their workload though.

This is just one of those things that can make or break a combo. I believe that if you're to the point that a stock cam isn't cutting it, you should always get a custom grind. It's money well spent and it's really the only way to get everything you want and nothing you don't (I.e. maintenance intervals, idle quality, torque curve, rpm range etc)
 
I talked to comp cans and tbey sent me this, how does it look? Still waiting for a reply from curtis
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I'm by no means a cam expert, but that is pretty mild. Should be very street friendly. I'm sure it will work fine for your combo. Not saying comp makes a bad product by any means. But IMO, and the opinion of countless others, Ed is the best there is.
 
Funny you said the he just emailed me with what he says i shouls go with, goona go the route!! Ill let you guys know what happens!


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