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1979 Pace Car build


Dang... guess I'm lucky. The local 1/8 mile track is only 18 minutes down the road. The next closest is a 40 minute drive. And within 2 1/2 hours I can be at one of 7 different 1/8 mile tracks or at one of 4 different 1/4 mile tracks.
Then there is a world renowned roadcourse within 30 minutes. And countless round tracks within the same 2 1/2hrs.


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We used to have a decent track 30 minutes away, but someone purchased the land and tore it down. To add insult to injury, they didn't even use the property as planned. I believe they were going to sell off lots or sell as commercial property. Instead, they just ripped everything out, then put it up for sale for some ungodly amount.

I'm finally home and started working on the car some more. Installed water temp and oil pressure gauges today (huge pain) and started trying to line out a problem with my front brakes dragging.

Although I hoped to get some drive time while I'm off, it looks like it'll be short-lived. I spoke to my boss and came to the understanding that they won't be calling me to ride over this time. Got off the boat yesterday and the boss called, literally, before I even made it home. I need a new job. I'm really getting fed up with this. As bad as it is on my hobbies, it's even worse when it comes to being away from my family. It also pays well, but the govt takes a bigger share, so I don't even see much of a difference, other than grey hair and a sore back.


Active Member
Got a little bit done on the car today. Figured out my brake issue. The master cylinder/booster pushrod was too long and just needed adjusted a little to shorten it. I think as the fluid heated up, it would expand and there wasn't enough clearance between the rod and master cylinder. Basically, as the fluid expanded, it was acting as if I was touching the brakes. There should be a slight amount of clearance to allow for expansion.

I also fixed a couple other electrical gremlins. I had been having issues off and on with the fan relay not wanting to kick on and I noticed the right turn signal wasn't working. The negative battery ground was evidently not good enough. I moved it to a better spot on the engine block and everything seems to be working fine.

The plastic t-handle on the hood release broke off today. I think it was just from be old and brittle. The cable itself seems to be in great shape. I haven't really looked at it yet, but I'm presuming I have to replace the entire cable. Any of you guys know if that's the case?


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Still fighting a backfire issue at higher rpm. Tried backing off on timing and it didn't phase it. Right now, I'm suspecting either a lean fuel condition or something in the ignition system. I did some testing on the ignition system and everything seems to be working fine. The plugs do look like I'm running lean, so I'm addressing that first. Fuel pressure and delivery are good. After some research on proper carb adjustment, I found that the 4.5 power valve is a little too low for my engine. I switched to a 10.5 PV and there was no change. Plugs still showing lean.

Instead of trying to tune the carb by reading plugs, I decided to order a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge. I'm working till Tuesday or Wednesday, but as soon as I get home, I'm hooking it up and seeing what I've got going on fuel wise. My carb (Quick Fuel brawler race series 650 cfm) has a 68 primary jet and 76 secondary jet. The backfire seems to happen even when I'm not in the pedal far enough to open the secondaries, so I'm suspecting I may just need to jet up a couple sizes. I'm hoping that's the case.

I'm still not completely ruling out an ignition problem, but since I'm fairly certain I'm running lean, I'm going to check/fix that and then go from there.


Active Member
Oh, and I did manage to clean up the old draglites and mount the new slicks. These are strictly for the occasional track day, if I ever get it running decent.