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1979 Pace Car build

Redtwilight

Shinigami
FYI, the sn95 booster doesn't fit the older cars as easily. I'd have to clearance the shock tower. Wouldn't bother me if I hadn't just painted the engine bay a while back. Anyway, it seems the 87-93 v8 booster, while not the best option, works well enough to do the job. Might notice a touch more pedal effort, but I'm fine with that. It will still be 100% better than the tiny brake set-up these early foxes had.

Yes the shock towers do need clearance on the earlier models for the SN95 booster and I believe the same is true for the '93 Cobra booster as well.
The SN95 booster will also require one or 2 of the mounting holes to be elongated.

I'm planning on going with the '93 Cobra booster myself. I will be upgrading to the 13" front and 11.65" rear Cobra calipers and discs when I do the 5 lug to my '93. So I will probably need the better booster.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
I noticed someone on the foureyedpride forum is selling a nearly new 93 cobra booster and mc.
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broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Ordered some brake parts today. Sn95 master cylinder, prop valve plug, and adaptor fittings for the passenger brake lines.

I know it sounds weird that I often use plural nouns where they don't really belong. However, I can assure you that it's no mistake lol! I often buy parts in twos or threes. In this case, I'm planning on doing the same mods to my other 79 this summer. These early foxes had terrible brake systems. My 88gt is far from being great, but still not as bad as these 79's. I hope to start updating the 79 cobra build thread a lot more starting in June. I'm basically just waiting for a chance to start repairing a small amount of shock tower frame rust. Better yet, I'd like to pay someone to do it. The 88gt rust wore me out.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
I spent today, once again, fighting brake problems. I'm not ready for the 5-lug swap and brake upgrade yet, so I'm working with what I have...which just so happens to be a completely new oem brake system. I've bled the master cylinder and brakes multiple time, even using a Mighty Vac vacuum bleeder. Finally got some brake pressure by replacing the new master cylinder with another new master cylinder. After re-bleeding twice, it just seems to not be right. Tons of brake pressure till you start the car, then the pedal drops an inch or so and gets spongy. Stopping is possible, but you better think ahead. Also, one of the front brake calipers (also brand new) seems to make a clicking sound and lock-up when attempting a hard stop. I've inspected everything and it all looks great. I'm going to try getting them all seated-in tomorrow and see if they get any better.

I also had a driveability problem. Motor sounds great till you drive it, and then there's an obvious misfire. I presume multiple cylinders. When you get into the throttle, she takes off like a rocket...no miss. I double checked the timing earlier and it was off a little, and the carb was definitely out of adjustment. After some adjustments, I went for another test drive and the miss was still there. Later in the evening, I pulled it in the garage and started yanking spark plugs. Two of them had excessive carbon buildup, and another one wasn't much better. I checked spark, wiring, and even ohmed the plug wires...all were fine. I went ahead and cleaned off the plugs and hoping that the carbon buildup was just from the carb being too rich. Although I haven't been driving the car, it has seen some run time just around the house while working on it. Oh, and I also pulled the valve covers and checked out the rockers. They were fine, as well. I'm going to go for another drive today and see what happens. Might just need to be driven, more than anything. Some wot pulls would be nice, but not till the brakes are straightened out. I did manage to get into it a couple times and it did put a big grin on my face!
 

Redtwilight

Shinigami
Congrats on at least getting to drive it!
Sorry to hear about the brakes.
How does the pedal feel? Calipers and shoes adjusted correctly? I know over on FEP you said the vacuum was low because of the cam. What booster is on there? You may need to change out the booster.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Congrats on at least getting to drive it!
Sorry to hear about the brakes.
How does the pedal feel? Calipers and shoes adjusted correctly? I know over on FEP you said the vacuum was low because of the cam. What booster is on there? You may need to change out the booster.
Everything adjusted properly, I believe. I pulled all four wheels yesterday and went over the whole system. It is the stock setup...calipers, spindles, rotors, drums, master cylinder, booster. With the car off, the pedal is high and firm. Feels exactly like it should. Start the car, and the pedal is pulled down a bit and is a little soft. It's still tons better than it was. If you've ever done a brake job and get in the car to test them out and it doesn't stop very well at first, that's how it feels. Pedal isn't going to the floor, but just doesn't stop like it should. If I had to guess, I would think one of the calipers are probably not working properly. I say that because it seems to be locking up after a hard stop. Drive it a little, and it frees up. I'm going to drive it around the neighborhood a little today and see if I can get it working any better. I was wanting to take it to the exhaust shop and have mufflers put on. I'm probably testing the neighbors' patience lol
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
I also got the rebuilt 8.8 back from my buddy, who rebuilt it. Actually, I got it back for the 2nd time. I had him put a 3.73 in it, but changed my mind. Due to the t5's 3.35 1st gear, I figured a 3.27 would be better, so he swapped it for me. Since I plan on eventually doing a 5-lug swap, im going to go ahead and order a set of 5-lug axles. I currently have a set of 4-lug draglites on it, but I recently traded some stuff for a set of 5-lug draglites. I also have a new set of drag radials, so I'll have those put on the 5-lugs and run them in the rear.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Man, I guess I've been too busy to keep this thread updated. Forgot to post about the exhaust. I had a shop install a pair of Thrush welded mufflers I had lying around with simple turn-downs. Didn't quiet it down much, but sounds 100% better.
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broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
And since I'm back to work, my buddy/neighbor is going to look at the brakes and the misfire issue. Pretty sure miss is due to the timing being off.

When I get home toward the end of the month, I plan on swapping the 8.8 in and redoing the rear brake lines. I also need to figure out how to install the front air dam. It was off the car when I got it. I'm not really sure how it goes on. There are studs on the drivers side fender skirt, but none in the passenger side. Looks like I can just use some bolts/nuts/washers. Not sure about how to attach it across the top and bottom. I glanced at my 82gt the other day and it looks like I may be missing a plastic piece that braces the bottom.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Nice progress!

The seats look great.
Do you already have the 5 lug stuff for the front?
I have 94-95 sn95 spindles, control arms, and brakes. I also have same parts from a 99-04 (I'm aware of bump steer issues and steering geometry, but my buddy runs them on all his foxes and he swears by them). I have 87-93 v8 booster and sn95 master cyl. I think I'm just doing sn95 front stuff and 87-93 drums on rear...sn95 mc and 87-93 v8 booster. So many choices!
 

Redtwilight

Shinigami
Don't forget that the 96 - 04 spindles will space the wheels out further.

I've also got the 94-95 front spindles, 13" front Cobra calipers/discs, 11.65" rear Cobra calipers/discs, 93 Cobra booster/MC. I'm also going to go with a manual proportining valve and line loc.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Don't forget that the 96 - 04 spindles will space the wheels out further.

I've also got the 94-95 front spindles, 13" front Cobra calipers/discs, 11.65" rear Cobra calipers/discs, 93 Cobra booster/MC. I'm also going to go with a manual proportining valve and line loc.
Will the 13" brakes fit a 15" wheel? I already have a set of draglites I'd like to eventually use at the track.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Oh, and my Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve just showed up the other day, along with the brake line adaptor for the (iirc) passenger side and plug for the stock pv.
 
Hey man I see your doing the brake swap, I'll be plucking your brain in a few weeks about the brake line connections and the porportioning valve stuff.Ill be Pulling everything off of a 94 v6 car as far as spindles, rotors,calipers etc...I was told that I need the master cylinder and brake booster off the 94.Do you know if I need both or just the mc?
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Hey man I see your doing the brake swap, I'll be plucking your brain in a few weeks about the brake line connections and the porportioning valve stuff.Ill be Pulling everything off of a 94 v6 car as far as spindles, rotors,calipers etc...I was told that I need the master cylinder and brake booster off the 94.Do you know if I need both or just the mc?
I have talked to guys that used the sn95 mc with the 87-93 v8 booster with no issues. I'm going to be changing mine out for the 87-93 v8 booster and sn95 mc. I would use the sn95 booster as well, but on the early foxes like mine, I would need to massage the shock tower. It's my understanding that the later foxes had enough room to clear it.

Are you doing sn95 rear disc, as well? I'm using 87-93 drums (5-lug aftermarket stuff). I just don't feel like dealing with that right now lol! The 79 brakes are pretty much just for looks, so anything is a vast improvement.
 

Redtwilight

Shinigami
Will the 13" brakes fit a 15" wheel? I already have a set of draglites I'd like to eventually use at the track.

Sadly no. For Cobra 13" rotors and calipers, you'll need 17" wheels minimum. Some have fit 15" wheels that were offset waayyyy out. But if you'd need to get new wheels to fit then why not go ahead and get the correct diameter to begin with.

You'd might be able to get away with a hubcentric spacer; but then that would push the wheel out too far.
 

Redtwilight

Shinigami
Hey man I see your doing the brake swap, I'll be plucking your brain in a few weeks about the brake line connections and the porportioning valve stuff.Ill be Pulling everything off of a 94 v6 car as far as spindles, rotors,calipers etc...I was told that I need the master cylinder and brake booster off the 94.Do you know if I need both or just the mc?

I'm collecting parts now for a 5-lug 4 wheel disc setup as well.
Check out Maximum Motorsports. They have information and all the lines pre-made for the swap on their website.
If you're doing the 4 wheel disc conversion then it might be a good idea to go ahead and use the '94-'95 Booster /Master Cylinder to keep the proper braking pressure and feel.
 
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