junkyard fox
New Member
What do you guys think of my 393 combination? Should I go with this or try something different? My thinking was more cubes but I have seen smaller motors making big hp with boost. What would you guys suggest?
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My first fox!
- Thread starter junkyard fox
- Start date
Any 351 combo is going to be easier to pull power out of while being easier on parts (I.e lower rpm and less boost to create the same power as a boosted 302 based motor) so I would stick with it if I were you. To be honest I would just keep it N/A. You could make every bit of 550 crank hp out of a 393 with a relatively mild combo of off the shelf parts.
83stang
Member
Blown347 correct me if I'm wrong, but a car like ours @ around 530RWHP will put you into the high 9 sec range that junkyard fox is after? Also putting a fuel cell, rear seat delet and under drive pullys and getting rid of
the A/C sustem.will help him also, as far as reducing weight to help reachthat goal
the A/C sustem.will help him also, as far as reducing weight to help reachthat goal
You can get to a high 9 second range but it will have to be a tin can lol. Like 2700 lbs. it's possible to get to that weight without a ton of lightweight parts but you have to get drastic with weight reduction.
junkyard fox
New Member
I like the idea of an N/A motor. I have had turbo cars before but they were a real pain to work with. The interior of the car is in pretty bad shape so I'm gutting it. I already deleted the ac and the p/s. I still need a tubular k member. Trying to make it as light weight as possible. What rear end would you guys suggest?
I would keep the 8.8 and have it straightened, the tubes welded and braces and some good internal components. No need for a 9" unless your pushing 1000+ hp IMO. An 8.8 can do just fine with a little work and it's quite a bit easier
83stang
Member
8.8 is a stought rear end. I kept mine. With no issues.
junkyard fox
New Member
What do you guys think of the c-clip eliminators or should I get 9 inch housing ends?
C clip eliminators are fine. 9" ends are basically the same thing but you have to cut and weld them
junkyard fox
New Member
Cool. The less I can spend on something the better. What have you guys done for brakes? BTW thanks for all the help. This thread has been very helpful to me.
Are you going 4 or 5 lug? There aren't many brake options in 4 lug. With budget in mind, the only cheap brake upgrade worth doing is take the 5 lugs from an sn95 mustang.
4 lug you can do SVO front calipers (they bolt right to your existing brackets, they just have a bigger single piston) and you can pull the discs from a thunderbird turbo coupe, which are also 4 lug.
4 lug you can do SVO front calipers (they bolt right to your existing brackets, they just have a bigger single piston) and you can pull the discs from a thunderbird turbo coupe, which are also 4 lug.
junkyard fox
New Member
I want to go 5 lug. Was looking at getting some weld drag stars. I was also thinking of switching the spindles to sn95.
It's a fairly straight forward swap. Only thing to consider is the rear. There's a couple ways to do it. 1 is keep sn-95 length axles and the brakes bolt right on. The fox axles you have to either cut the SN-95 bracket and bolt it on the back side of the flange or buy brackets from north race cars the mount them on the front of the flange like normal.
If you keep sn95 axles you have to run a smaller backspace on your wheels because they're 3/4" longer.
junkyard fox
New Member
I have found a kit that late model restoration sells that swaps to five lug and 4 wheel discs by SSBC. Not sure how much stopping power they have though.
Ssbc is nice stuff. I believe aerospace makes a 4 lug kit as well.
I have aerospace pro street fronts and sn-95 rear discs for mine
83stang
Member
70 % of your stoping power comes from the front breaks that why I switch to 13" front disc. That's a good brand for the rear though
junkyard fox
New Member
But if I go with big and littles wouldn't I need more braking in the rear?
This is correct for drag racing. But there is a fine line because locking up the rears at the finish line is a recipe for disaster. That doesn't mean that most of your brake bias should go to the rear, just more then normal. The fronts are still going to do most of the stopping (say 60/40) any disc brakes on the rear will do fine unless you really start pushing the power (like trapping 140+) in the 1/4 which is a deep 9 second pass.