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Mustang 5.0 Bolts, Nuts and Screws list.

Discussion in 'Technical, Maintenance and Modification' started by ALMOST STOCK, Aug 2, 2016.

  1. ALMOST STOCK

    ALMOST STOCK Active Member

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    I’ve been putting this list together for the past 10-12 years. I hope it helps someone if they’re looking for a bolt size or need a replacement bolt. Most of the sizes are from either my 89 5.0 Mustang when I work on it or from the 89 Mustang Shop Manual.



    Engine Related:

    Fan Pulley on the water pump 5/16-24 x ¾” with lock washers

    Fan to Fan Clutch 5/16 X 18 X ½” with lock washers

    Water pump bolt with treaded stud 5/16” X 18 ----3/8” X16 length 3-7/16” and 5”

    Intake bolts =Lower intake to head.... 5/16 X 18 X 2" they are all the same.

    Upper Intake to Lower Intake =4 corner bolts are 5/16 x 1 5/8 and the 2 middle bolts are 5/16 x 6. Size and Thread pitch 5/16-18 in.

    Smog in back of head /Thermactor Plug 5/8-11

    External thread is 5/8 x 11Internal thread is 7/16 x 14

    Or if you rather put a plate over that hole instead of the Thermactor Plug the threaded hole beside it uses a 7/16-14 bolt.
    OR----5/8-11 x 3/4" bolts

    Bolt that goes thru cross over pipe into back of heads= 5/16" x 1 1/2" course thread.

    SPARK Plug Thread.. 14mm x 1.25

    2 Different Head bolt lengths--- ARP’s are 3-15/16" and 2-7/16"

    Head Bolt --- 7/16 by 14.

    Header Stud Bolt at Collector—Stock—7/16 X 14 pitch Total length 2-3/4” under stud length 2”
    90-95
    M12 x 1-3/4 - 7/16 x 70m Ford part #N804013-S2

    Crankshaft Bolt/Harmonic Balancer 5/8 with 18 pitch thread, RH
    Holds Balancer to Crank Shaft) 15/16” Socket --- 24 mm works also.

    4 Crank Pulley bolts are ------3/8-16 x 1"

    Low Oil Sensor Plug-----20mm 1.5 thread pitch

    Ignition Module = (5.5mm) Deep Thin Wall ¼” drive
    Or? the TFI module bolt is M4 x 10mm screw. The stock ones have a 6mm hex head with an 8mm (OD) washer under the head. The bore diameter in the TFI plastic housing is 9mm.

    Oil Pan SOCKET--- 9/16” 6 point

    Oil Pan Plug -----1/2 X 20 MM

    Oil Pan to Block---- 18 bolts ¼”- 20 x 7/16"--- 4 bolts 5/16"- 18 x 9/16"

    Oil pump- 3/8" -16 x 1"

    Oil pickup tube - 5/16" -18 x .75"

    Header Bolts at block --- (stock) 3/8" x 16 x ¾”

    H pipe to Catback stock--- 7/16 – 14

    Fuel Rail bolts= 1/4 - 20 X 3/4"

    Tensioner Pulley Bolt
    = left hand thread 12mm

    Tensioner Pulley Nut =left handed thread18mm socket/wrench

    Throttle Cable to Bracket =… 9 mm screw

    Valve Cover bolts =¼ x 20 x 1”

    Starter bolt =… 3/8 -16 X 1.5

    TFI module 6-32 x3/4" common screw

    O2 bung plug size= 18mm

    Oxygen Sensor Thread Size=-- 18mm x 1.5

    Schrader Valve thread pitch= 1/16 NPT
    as per the autometer website:
    model #3275
    1/16" NPTF Male to -4AN
    Male mechanical gauge adapter for fuel rail

    model #3280
    1/16" NPTF Male to 1/8" NPT
    Female adapter for fuel rail
    For use with Electric Fuel Pressure gauges

    TPS = M4 x 0.70 pitch x 25mm length - Phillips Pan Head

    Stock Intake Torx Head Plaque screws = 8-32 x .62 taper seat machine screw

    IAC= Flanged head M 6 X 1.0 X 25mm

    T-stat housing bolts= 5/16-18 x 1 3/4" for top left bolt
    5/16-18 x 1 1/4" for bottom right bolt, both bolts use split lock washers.

    CAMSHAFT Thrust Plate/ could also be called retainer plate= 1/4X20 X 3/4”

    CAM Bolt = 3/8 X 16 x 1 ½-- washer thickness 7/32

    EFI fuel rail = 1/4" -20 x .75"

    Distributor hold down = 5/16" -18 x .75"

    Motor Mount to Block--- 7/16" x 14 x 7/8”

    Motor Mount Nut 14mm x 2.0 (pitch)

    Sensors on Intake --- 3/8" NPT

    Flywheel bolts 7/16-20 thread.

    Thermostat housing Trick flow Track heat intake= 5/16-18 there are 2 bolts (1) bolt 1” (the other) 1-1/ 2”

    Radiator Bracket Bolt = Metric8 x1.25

    Alternator Bracket Bolts
    Quantity 2: Alternator Bracket to block 3/8-16x2”
    Quantity 1: Alternator Bracket to head 7/16-14x1-3/4”
    7/16-14 x5" (goes front-to-back, lower outer hole), also needs compression sleeve in the front hole.
    3/8-16 x1 1/4" (bolt reversed… goes back-to-front, upper inner hole)




    Suspension Related



    All the control arm bolts and nuts are 18 mm. The shock bolt head is 15 mm and the nut is 18 mm. The sway bar bolts are 15 mm. The drive shaft bolts are 12 mm 12 point.

    Drive shaft bolts--- 12 pt 12 mm X 1”

    Rear Diff cover=--Stock5/16 X18 X3/4” … w/ TA cover X 1-1/4 long

    Bearing Cap bolt--- 1/2-13

    Lower STRUT NUTS=--- Upper is 13/16” Bottom is 21mm 24mm if they're stock.

    TOP STRUT NUT OEM ----- M16 x 2.00

    Rear Shock (axle housing mounting bolts) =-- 12mm x 1.75 x 70mm or you can use a 1/2" x 1.50" long bolt.

    Quad shock axle housing mounting bolts(12mm x 1.75 x 70mm)

    Rear shock axle housing mounting bolts (12mm x 1.75 x 70mm)

    Upper control arm axle housing bolts (12mm x 1.75 x 80mm)

    Lower control arm axle housing bolts (12mm x 1.75 x 100mm)

    Front Lower Control Arms 16mm X 4-5/8” socket =-- 21 mm on the bolts and a 24mm on the nuts.

    Rear Lower Control Arms 16 mm x 4”
    Bolt size = 12mm
    Length from bottom of flange = 4 inches
    Threads length = 1 7/8 inches
    Head size = 18mm
    High strength - Class = 10.9

    K Member Bolts
    4ea M-14 2.0 Pitch x 95mm
    4ea M-12 1.75 Pitch x 25mm class 10.9

    Jam Nuts on Tie Rod Ends --- 9/16"-18

    Ball Joint Castle Nut =---5/8 x 18

    Front Wheel Bearing Castle Nut = 1 1/8”

    Rear Sway Bar bolt thread size and length= (1991- 1993)M10 x 1.50 x 33mm
    Grade 10.9 (1989) 3/8-16 X 1-1/4

    Front Sway Bar Bolt= M10 X 1.5 X 38 MM Grade 10.9

    Steering rack bolts=5 ½” x ½”

    Steering shaft bolt=M10 x 1.0 with 11mm 12 point head and 1.20" under head length

    Stock Hood Bolts = M8x1.25x20mm

    Tie rod jam nut= 5/8-16 thread.

    Outer tie rod castle nut= 1/2X 20

    K-Member Bolts = M16 x 2.0 x 117.5

    Stock Cotter pin Front Wheel Bearing = 3/16 x 2”



    Transmission & Bellhousing Related

    Transmissions to Bellhousing ---12mm x 40mm X 1.75 pitch. Ford# N605935-S2

    Motor to Bellhousing=--- 7/16 X 14 thread pitch 1.5” for 302/351W

    Bellhousing to block bolts are all SAE 7/16-14. The top two are 1 7/8" long and the other 4 are 2 1/4" long.

    Transmission Mount to Transmission= 1/2" X 13 X 1-1/2” long.

    Bellhousing to spacer plate (block plate) = 5/16 X 18 x 1" long

    Clutch Fork Cover Bolt Size----6mm x1.0 with 8.8 Hex Head ( or it's nothing much more than a small course-thread sheet metal screw with an 8mm head).

    Shifter Bolt to Trans =- M8 x 1.25 x 20mm.

    AOD Shifter nut = M8 x 1.25 X 20MM

    Shift knob thread= 12mm x 1.75

    Speedometer bolt to Trans T-5=--- 1/4-20 x 3/4". Also has a split ring lock washer

    Vehicle Speed Sensor= 1/4 X 20 X 3/4

    Thread Pitch for T5 Neutral Safety Switch Hole =16mm x 1.5

    Pressure plate bolt =8 mm x 1.25…. (Wrench Dia.13mm)



    MISC:


    Seat Bolts and Nut= Bracket to floor = M10x1.5 -- Seat to bracket = M8x1.25

    Seatbelt – T50 Torx head

    Door Striker =-- T50

    Door Striker Thread= -- 7/16"-14

    Door Hinge Bolt= -- 5/16- 18 pitch X 1 1/4

    Rear Hatch Striker = T50

    Rear Hatch Striker Thread= 7/16 x 1 thread.

    Rear Seat Belt =---T50

    Arm rest (under plastic plugs) 6mm x 1.0

    Wheel Stud Bolts=---1/2” X 20--- Knurl Diameter—0.615in

    Lug Nuts=------1/2”-20 R

    Head light adjuster bolt/ screw = 4mm or 5/32

    Plastic piece on the male side of the hatch latch OD= 11/16” ID= 1/2"

    Airbag bolts M6 x 1.0 x 10mm long

    Proportioning valve to the front right brake caliper =7/16-24

    Front Bumper Rivets = 3/16”

    Door Rivets are 1/4”

    Power steering stud size = 7/16-20

    Rear License Plate Screw #14 with self cutting threads

    ¼ Window Nuts= M4 x 0.7

    Fuel Tank strap bolt = Head is 13 MM

    Hood Latch = M7 X 1.25 X 22.225 ******** 7/8” length

    Ground Strap weaved …back of head=3/8 16 X 1/2.

    Oil pressure sender extension =1/4 NPT

    Throttle Body Studs = 5/16-18 X 4 1/8”

    Smog Pump Top 2 bolts to rubber hose to Air Bypass = m6 15mm long

    Battery hold down bolt =6mm x 1.0 x 55m

    Ground bolt at Timing Cover =3/8 -18 x 1"

    Stock Cotter pin Front Wheel Bearing = 3/16 x 2”
     
    Colin Young and Blown347 like this.
  2. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    This is awesome. Definitely "sticky" material!
     
    ALMOST STOCK likes this.
  3. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    LOL....and then some...OMG if FORD was that good at keeping records just by handling the parts...
    I hate it when you have to answer 3 questions at the counter just to get wiper blades these days....
    I just watch an episode of Wheeler/ Dealer (on Velocity) and they did an 88 GT convert...I liked everything but the plastic curb cards
    he put on the rims....they got 9200 after dropping 7500 (cost of the car and all the upgrades)...
     
    broncojunkie likes this.
  4. ALMOST STOCK

    ALMOST STOCK Active Member

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    I don't see that happening.
     
  5. ALMOST STOCK

    ALMOST STOCK Active Member

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    At least it's been looked at once or twice :)
     
    broncojunkie likes this.
  6. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    Just so you know, I've been wearing this post out for the last week! Thanks again for posting!
     
  7. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    I just told the wife I'm printing it out and framing it in my garage!
     
  8. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    LOL....I want to get in my garage but having the car under covers now and rain on the way....yep...its Memorial Day Weekend and the Indy 500....time to rain...... its could be The Russians!!!!!
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2017
    broncojunkie likes this.
  9. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    I guess it missed us and the 500... friends of our near Wisconsin said they got quite a down pour just before 2 o'clock...checking the weather charts in a few minutes...heading out to rotate the tires and clean the brakes up on my Grand Marquis....And a much deserved "Thank You" to all the men and women who are serving or have served in protecting this great country....
     
    broncojunkie likes this.
  10. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    I got a problem...this winter I was going to do a few things to the car... Accel 19 lbs injectors , BBK Ceramic long tube headers and remove what what left of my smog/pollution plumbing....The past few year I have only bolted on things to it, never messed with the engine it self...I talked myself out of the long tube header and just went with the new injectors and removal of all that plumbing. I plugged those thermactor ports and replace the upper intake plenum gasket and both header gaskets as well, capped off those few vacuum lines. Having that all done and put back together I had the car out to 2 shops and they can't find why I can't keep an idle after it warns up???? new IAC motor/new O2's and I cleaned up the ERG valve....I used a 1/2 a can of carb cleaner trying to find some sort of vacuum leak and even went with 93 octane on my last fill up . The car runs fine until it reaches 190 degrees but if I get caught at a stop light I can watch the rpm's start to drop...as soon as it gets to 500 rpm's it starts bog'n and running bad......I found on LMR web site a IAC adapter plate....allows more air in to help that problem but...I just have a few bolt-on .....I have been running it for the last few years without any problems...I still have the o2's but no cats.... distributor/ coil/Iac/Mas Air flow/O2's have all been on the car for the 6 years prior to what I did over this winter....Did you or any out there have this problem after doing what I did???? Does anyone have this adapter on their IAC motor????
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 3, 2017
  11. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    My theory is that it sounds as though you are having an issue once it goes into open loop. Until it warms up, you are in closed loop... the system isn't taking information from the various sensors. So I would be looking at o2 sensors, tps, maf sensor, act sensor. Have you pulled codes?
     
  12. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    Yes, buddy of mine said try new O2's after he ran his code reader on it...then we put o2 SIM's on and now the same thing is happening..new Motorcraft O2's, new Motorcraf IAC and new TPS ( Not Motorcraft ). I'll have to check out the ACT...didn't know I had one....thanks....
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2017
  13. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    I would check the harness closely. They tend to get brittle with age. Clean maf sensor if you haven't already. It's been my experience that vacuum leaks will cause a high idle, not low. Three tps can wreak havoc too. They're easy to test on the car. There are a few YouTube videos and write-ups online.
     
  14. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    I pulled the upper plenum of last night and got the ACT off...it is fouled with carbon and very wet....I haven't ran the car since last Sunday.....I seen one on line that comes with a new harness...I did snap off one side clip so I think I'm going to get the one with the new harness along with the new ACT...Was there a better way of getting that thing off???? I didn't want to start back at zero but I could not get my hands or tools anywhere near it because of my strut tower brace....had to take that off too.....
     
  15. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    Well it won't be here till Tuesday....I know its probably the OEM one I took out, so are these a non-serviceable part to begin with??? or is there some tool out there to remove them with out taking off the plenum??? I know I won't put 84,000 more miles on this one so how do you keep one clean or as clean as possible???
     
  16. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    I'm going to put the new ACT on Sunday morning...heading out early in the morning cause its going to be well into the 90's the rest of the weekend and part of next week...is there anything else I should be looking into before I get it all back together so I don't have to remove the plenum again???
     
  17. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    Check your throttle body and make sure it's clean and the butterfly is working properly. Also pull a couple plugs and see if they have carbon build-up. If something is causing the fuel mixture to be too rich, that could cause all sorts of problems.
     
  18. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    That all was done when I had the plenum off the last time...lol...new plugs went in when I ordered the new ACT last week...hopefully its only a few more hours till I get it all back on....as soon as I get the plenum on I'll take it for a short ride and then come back and put the strut tower brace back on....I found a video on youtube of someone "removing" the ACT without taking of the plenum...1 inch deep wall socket / 1 inch long combination wrench / 3/8 drive socket wrench... he put the socket on the sensor , placed one of the forks of the open side of the combination wreck in the top of the socket and fed the handle of the socket wrench through the closed end of the wreck to turn the socket and remove the ACT.... It looked like it was possible.....
     
  19. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    I'm not much help with the act sensor removal. I'm using an explorer intake that doesn't have the sensor in the plenum. I have the sensor plugged in and zip-tied to the injector harness under the upper plenum. Seems to work just fine without being in the actual air flow. Most people running this set-up drill the cai tube and install it there, but I don't think it makes a noticeable difference unless the temperature differs by a large margin. I also run a 1" intake spacer, which would probably give more room anyway.
     
  20. John2002

    John2002 Guest

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    No help...It did fire up with one turn of the key but after about a 30 minute ride it still dropped idle at a red light....I also replace the engine coolant temp sensor, and after looking at RockAuto web site there are two types...the one I replaced sits in the pipe that goes to the heater core, its just like the ACT shape and the other one I found on RA sets just behind the a/c compressor and has just one wire lead pig tailed to it... Is that for the temp gauge for the dash??? Would taking it into a Ford dealership find my problem???
     

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