1. Hello there guest and Welcome to Fox Body Mustangs forum, This forum is intended to be used by enthusiasts of the Fox body Ford Mustangs (1979-1993)!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

    Dismiss Notice

Mustang 5.0 Bolts, Nuts and Screws list.

Discussion in 'Technical, Maintenance and Modification' started by ALMOST STOCK, Aug 2, 2016.

  1. ALMOST STOCK

    ALMOST STOCK Active Member

    233
    138
    43
    NP.... it's good to hear people are getting some use from it.
     
    John2002 and broncojunkie like this.
  2. John2002

    John2002 Active Member

    321
    144
    43
    : ) I have a hard time starting a thread so I just get a question out in and old one....I fumbled around in the garage Tuesday cause I took the day off waiting for a plumber....never start a bathroom project on Mondays after 5 pm.... I read a few more "what to check" on other web site about idle problem on 5.0's.....wanting not to spend anymore time or money on just about every symptom out there I took off the TFI that came with the new distributor 4 years ago and put on my 5 year old Ford TFI and the car held idle.....blocked both front tires, set the parking brake and started the car and waited till it got to 190 degrees and moved the trans into drive.....15 plus minutes later it was still running...... but changing the ACT sensor was the best direction I got....since replacing the injectors and taking off what was left of the smog plumbing I could not start it with one turn of the ignition....bad weather here till Monday ( 90 plus temps or rain) so taking it out and getting a real road test in will have to wait....I'm still hoping to get back to trusting the car to get to the car shows around town.....I have never carried any tools in the car since we got it and I don't want to be a worry wort about it when we do get out for the day.....
     
  3. John2002

    John2002 Active Member

    321
    144
    43
    Back to square one....still died at a red light last night....been up and down youtube with people with videos of idle issues ...but all the videos I have seen still have the TFI on the distributor and they say it won't restart till after a long cool down. Mine fires right back up without any problems......will relocating the TFI help???? I found (McCullyRacingMotors) a site that has a long harness and a heat sink that you bolt the TFI to, then find spot on the passenger fender or radiator support to fasten the heat sink and TFI to....like I said....mine car has never failed to start after it shuts down....
     

    Attached Files:

  4. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

    457
    154
    43
    How's your pcv valve? When my 88 was dying, I finally figured out I had knocked mine loose when I changed the throttle body. It wasn't easy to find the vacuum leak, since the pcv is tucked down deep on the very back of the lower intake.
     
  5. John2002

    John2002 Active Member

    321
    144
    43
    It was a forgotten soldier when I got it all back together the first time but its were it should be and I cleaned it with carb cleaner before we took it out Sunday...my buddy asked the same thing.... I read most of that lawsuit back in the 90's about the TFI failing in hot hot cities but I have had this distributor and its TFI for about 4 years....I'm going try a small piece of tin ( 4X6 but thinner thin a playing card ) and somehow get it between the TFI and distributor and curl it up in front of the TFI so it can draw some of the heat away...Its in my mind right now and I'm thinking of all the different ways I can bend it and drill holes through it....LOL....I guess I'll never stop....LOL...Rain here the next few days so I guess I got time to think....
     
  6. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

    457
    154
    43
    Yes, the tfi can be problematic. You probably know already, but the parts stores can test them. Have them bench tested 4 or 5 times in a row. Sometimes they'll pass when cool, but fail after a few tests (once they heat up).
     
  7. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

    457
    154
    43
    Oh, and they also sell a small tool to remove them. Just a few bucks but sure does come in handy in tight places!
     
  8. John2002

    John2002 Active Member

    321
    144
    43
    Yes. my new 160 degree thermostat came today and Ill take the radiator off and do light power wish backward on the fins just to see if I can get it a bit cleaner...my heat sink didn't work...I guess there was some magnetical interference between the TFI and the distributor ...it fit like I thought up but the car would only crank...no spark.......I have that little twist off 4.5 mm socket...I alway re-grease my TFI every year....now I'll just remove the distributor now and do it....no chance of loosing those tiny azz screws.....take just 3 minutes that way....lol...
     
  9. John2002

    John2002 Active Member

    321
    144
    43
    Strike 4.....after getting the radiator out and pover washing it and using compressed air to clean the A/C condenser and swapping out thermostats and filling with new anti freeze.....still did the idle drop after it warmed up (right at 160) and then shut off, I re-started it and heard a lifter start knocking. ... I also noticed I had no oil pressure again....shut it off and called a shop to come get it...he should be able to get to it early Monday.....
     
  10. John2002

    John2002 Active Member

    321
    144
    43
    Found 5 bad lifters, and the rod connecting the dist to the oil pump is missing....it maybe in the old pan ...the have to pull the engine to find out ....
    Should one out more info on Thursday.......
     
  11. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

    457
    154
    43
    Well, that's no good. ARP oil pump shafts are worth their weight in gold. If you hold one side by side with an oem shaft, you'll see the difference immediately. Once they find your old one, post up a pick. I'm curious to see what it looks like. At this point, you may want to start looking for a good deal on a new motor. Around here, you can find good used 302's for cheap. You might even consider going with a 351W, as long as you can find a good used "roller" motor for a decent price. The money you save from having to do a complete rebuild on your old motor could go toward a new cam and maybe some heads.
     
  12. John2002

    John2002 Active Member

    321
    144
    43
    I haven't heard from the shop yet...he said maybe today with getting the engine out.....did this shaft fail on its own or did I caused it by taking the dist out a half dozen times in the last few week???
     
  13. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

    457
    154
    43
    Good question. The condition of the shaft should tell you immediately, though.
     

Share This Page