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93 Coupe "Shadow"

Discussion in 'Members Build-Up Projects' started by Redtwilight, Mar 15, 2018.

  1. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Here's the build thread of Shadow. My 1993 5.0 Notch.
    I purchased it used in 2001 to help offset the daily driver duties of ZERO my '96 Cobra.
    The only mods done to it by previous owners were Flowmaster's welded into the factory cat back, an AC delete due to a locked up AC compressor, a K&N conical filter, and a Tremec 3550 with Hurst shift handle and knob.


    A Little Paint
    [​IMG]


    I wasn't long before the itch to modify it more kicked in and I purchased a set of BBK full length headers, BBK off road H-pipe and MAC dumped cat back system.


    BBK Headers, Off Road H-pipe & MAC Dumped Cat Back
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Shadow Cleaned Up
    [​IMG]





    I drove it for a little while until the bug struck again.
    This time it was an electric fan when the old fan clutch went out. Also a set of aluminum undrive pulleys, Professional Products polished 70mm throttle body and EGR plate and smog pump delete. Also at this time I further stripped the rest of the remaining AC system.
    And it stayed in this state for several years until one day on my way to work I crossed oven an ice slicked bridge and sent it into a ditch. It rolled over onto the drivers side. After rolling it back level to my surprise only the driver side view mirror was broken. The driver's side was scratch free. But the passenger side had snapped the rear axle and bent in the lower rear portion of the rear quarter panel.


    After that incident I took it off the road for a while until things were fixed and my paycheck could with stand the insurance of another vehicle again.
    While it was taken off the road my dad decided to get back into drag racing. He bought a roller and started building it up. After a couple of races the crank in his car broke. So he had the idea to put some slicks on Shadow and run it to stay in the points until he could rebuild.


    After this I put it back on the road. But the bug to race had bit me as well.
    So this spurred the next round of mods.
    This time a fiberglass 4" cowl hood, light weight Weld Rod Lite wheels, 275/60-15 Mickey Thompson drag radials, and 4.10:1 Ford Racing ring and pinion gears were added to get it ready for the drag strip. Also a set of home made sub frame connectors got welded in at this time.


    New Cowl Hood and Front Bumper
    [​IMG]



    New Wheels Weld Rod Lites
    [​IMG]



    Some More Paint
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




    I ran it like this all season. For this round of mods I only added a 70mm mass air meter from a '94 Gt. But I had other problems.
    The very first run of the year during test and tune I snapped the left rear axle on the launch.


    Broken Axle
    [​IMG]




    So in went new Motive Gear 28 spline axles as replacements and new seals before the first points race of the year.


    Broken Motive Gear 28 Spline Axle
    [​IMG]



    This wasn't so good either as a bad lower control arm bushing had caused severe wheel hop. The seal was leaking on the right side axle tube. Upon further inspection the right rear lower control was also bent. It was bent approximately 5/8" up higher at the spring perch.


    Bent Factory Lower Rear Control Arm
    [​IMG]


    So on order went a pair of Team Z double adjustable rear lower control arms and 1/2" grade 8 bolts. At the same time I installed a 3 row aluminum radiator and new 180* thermostat.


    Team Z Double Adjustable Lower Rear Control Arms
    [​IMG]




    Things went well for one race. Then at the Horsepower Junkies Draggin Rights I broke another axle. Got that repaired and went to the track for the next points race.
    Well, you guessed it! Broke a third axle.


    Broken Motive Gear 28 Spline Axle
    [​IMG]




    And that brings me to my current round of upgrades!


    Thinking the housing could be bent and causing the breakage, a new housing was located.
    Also on order went a set of housing braces from Wild Rides Race Cars, a pair of Strange 31 spline race axles with C-clip eliminators and 1/2-20 x 3" wheel studs, and a FRPP 31 spline Cobra differential.


    New Housing
    [​IMG]
    Strange 31 Spline Race Axles
    [​IMG]
    Axle out yet again.
    [​IMG]



    Bracing, Diff Girdle and 4.30:1 Gears going in.
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]





    After
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    So far my best time has been 8.49 at 81 mph in the 1/8th. It's still mostly stock. The valve covers haven't even been removed since the factory.
     
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  2. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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  3. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Shortly before Christmas 2016 I was involved in a slight fender bender when someone decided to unexpectedly merge into my lane as my side was slowing for an accident in their lane.


    Well needless to say some body damaged occurred in the form of broken headlights, a bent fender, a torn and gouged front bumper cover, and my fiberglass hood slightly busted.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]






    I have a few bumper covers lying around and a set of clear headlights. So I placed an order for a new passenger fender and a Harwood 4" cowl hood.


    Yes... Yes... I know I don't need a 4" cowl... but I like the way it looks and it's waayyyy lighter than going back to the factory steel hood.


    I pulled Shadow into the shop to start replacing the body panels as well as a large order of parts. I'm hoping to get everything ready for the Easter Race at Roxboro Motorsports Park.


    This parts list soon to be done includes:


    Pro 5.0 Shifter for the Tremec 3550
    Steeda Tri-ax shifter handle*
    Billet pistol grip shift knob
    FRPP Aluminum driveshaft
    Stifflers transmission crossmember.
    Energy Suspension poly motor and trans mounts
    Prothane poly offset rack bushings


    Team Z k-member kit with control arms and coilover kit
    Strange 10 way adjustable front struts
    Team Z castor camber plates






    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




    Here I have gotten the body panels removed. I hammered down the top front of the passenger side core support that was bent in the accident. The aluminum driveshaft, Stifflers trans cross member, and poly trans mount have been installed.

    The Team Z K-member, control arms, coil over kit and struts.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Got the Team Z and Strange stuff installed. It's all really nice stuff. I did have a few things fighting me such as ball joints and tie rods not wanting to break free to having to remove the entire brake rotor just to pull the spindle off the ball joint.


    The Team Z K member is a nice piece but next time I think I'm going with Racecraft. Team Z offsets the steering rack towards the passenger side by 3/8". THey said it's for header clearance. But in my case with the BBK headers it had the opposite effect. So out came the torch and BFH to "clearance" the header tubes for the MM steering shaft.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




    Cobra grill insert and new headlights


    [​IMG]




    Finally got it all together and the body panels bolted on. Dropped it down to see what it looked like before I set the ride height. Nice and low.


    [​IMG]






    Initial ride height is set in front and a close enough alignment done until I can get it professionally aligned. I may raise it up another 1/2" - 1" in front depending on how the rear suspension sits when I change the rear springs.
    I did make it to the track for the Easter Race at Roxboro. But I didn't run or do any testing yet. So no numbers on the new combination yet.


    [​IMG]
     
  4. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Ordered a pair of Team Z stock location rear drag springs and some new SVE spring isolators for the rear. Now the only left to do on the entire suspension is the rear shocks. Eventually I might step up to a rear coil over setup with anti-roll bar. But for now everything is stock location setup.

    I got the Team Z rear drag springs and SVE isolaters installed. Now things have settled a bit. Time to re-check the pinion angle, check the instant center, and hit the track to see if the new suspension will make a difference.


    [​IMG]




    I might end up removing the iso's depending on how everything goes at the track.



    EDIT:
    Car set up too high in the rear with the poly Isolators and threw off the instant center.
    It didn't want to hook at all during testing one day at Piedmont.
    So off came the iso's, dropping the rear down about 3/4" more. I also measured and plotted the chassis to find out where my instant center now stands. I also still need to move the axle side mounting point of the uppers to a different hole for a more optimum instant center.


    [​IMG]

    Since the local drag strip (Roxboro Motorsports Park) has been closed due to some situation with the owners, I have put the street shoes back on for now.


    While at it I added a little bling to the center caps.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]




    I have also been getting ready for MustangWeek!


    The old previous wiring on the electric fan burned up at a splice joint. It was also straight wired to a switched source.
    So I've removed the old wiring and I've added a relay and a switch. I also upped the power wires for the fan from 12awg to 10awg.




    I have also got a new Ford pinion seal to replace the leaky one. Then a good cleaning to the car.

    Made a simple switch plate to cover the hole where the radio head unit used to be. At the moment I only have the one electric fan switch in. But I have laid out room for 3 more switches and a couple gauges.

    [​IMG]


    I have finally gotten around to pulling the console and installing the Pro 5.0 shifter with Steeda handle and billet pistol grip knob.
    I've got a new inner shifter boot on the way to replace the original that was missing altogether.


    [​IMG]



    Also ordered some LED bulbs for the gauge cluster. Just a couple more items marked off the list before MustangWeek.


    While the console was apart, I took the opportunity to fix the ash tray door. The hinge pins had broken so I just drilled some hole and replaced them with a couple of screws.


    Voila! No more floppy ash tray door!
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    While I had the console out, I ended up doing quite a bit of cleaning and detailing to the interior before MustangWeek 2017.


    [​IMG]


    Don't you just love how easily the Fox coupe rear seats can be removed?
    [​IMG]


    Cleaned the upholstery. Here is a comparison. The right side has been cleaned and allowed to dry.
    [​IMG]


    All cleaned and back in.
    [​IMG]


    I also pulled the gauge cluster to replace the stock bulbs with LEDs.
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Got a new arm rest pad from Fox Mustang Restoration. I was missing the pad altogether and the bottom plastic piece that it attaches to was broken. Got both replaced and ready to go back in the car.
    [​IMG]


    All cleaned and back together!
    [​IMG]


    I also installed new door armrest pads, new door handle bezels, and new floor mats.
    [​IMG]


    Last minute washing, painting of the wiper arms, and new outer window belt trim before leaving for the greatest week of the year!
    MustangWeek 2017 here we come.
    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    I've been having an issue with a part throttle hesitation and also an issue with it starting. I have thinking that it's the fuel pump that is the culprit.
    But just to eliminate a few things that I already had on hand, I went ahead and did a mini tune up. I went with a new Motorcraft fuel Filter, Motorcraft copper spark plugs, FRPP 9mm ignition wires and a new Screamin' Demon ignition coil.
    [​IMG]


    This didn't alleviate the issue but it did eliminate possibilities that needed changing anyway.
    I will borrow a gauge and test to verify the fuel pressure is correct or not.
    But in the event that it is the pump, I placed an order for some new fuel system pieces.
    Those ordered are:
    Walbro 190lph in tank fuel pump
    Aeromotive adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
    BBK fuel rails
    some stainless braided fuel lines and fittings
    Ford Racing 24lb injectors
    and a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge


    I'm still trying to figure out if I want to go with the C&L 76mm MAF with intake tube or an 80mm Pro-M MAF. Both of course will be calibrated for the 24lb injectors.


    Box-O-Fuel system parts.
    [​IMG]

    mmm... YEP! Fuel pressure is a little bit on the low side.

    [​IMG]




    And since this thread needs an engine pic, voila...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Got the old fuel pump out and replaced with the new Walbro 190lph pump.


    [​IMG]


    Quite a size difference between the two.


    [​IMG]


    The hesitating and stumbling problem has now been taking care of. It runs soooo much better.
     
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  7. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Started collecting parts for a 5 lug swap. I still have quite a few pieces to get.
    I've had the Cobra calipers and brackets for a few years now. I have also gotten spindles from a '94-'95 and the rear brackets, dust shields and rotors. I also have a pair of polished 17x10 '03 Cobra wheels for the rear.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I still have the big ticket items such as rear axles, brake booster / master cylinder, brake lines, proportioning valve, and line lock to go. Also will still need to get a set of wheels for the track and a pair of front wheels for the street.
    I doubt I'll have it all by Mustang Week this year; but I'll try. If not by this time next year.
     
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  8. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    I had a little bit of trouble with the '93 cranking, or lack there of. It would spin over no problem but never fire. After checking through all the possible culprits including replacing a fuse link, the problem has been narrowed down.
    It is getting spark no problem, and it has fuel pressure up to the rails. But when I pull a plug they are completely dry. Also the pump stays continuously running instead of priming then shutting off.
    So this has lead me to the conclusion that the ECU has is gone. I'll pull it and visually check to see if I can find anything wrong first that I could possibly repair before getting a new one.

    I'm also going to swap out the TPS first just in case as I could not get it adjusted anywhere near the proper voltage. But I'm 95% certain it's the computer.


    Also while it's in the shop I will replace the clutch so it will be broken in before race season starts back up at the local track.
    The clutch itself is will be an under warranty replacement from Advance Auto. The current one has held up really well these last few years.


    To compliment the new clutch while everything is out will be a new Ram aluminum flywheel, Maximum Motorpsorts clutch cable, and a new rear main seal.


    [​IMG]



    I also got the last piece needed to swap to the 24lb injectors.
    Pro-M 80mm maf with filter.


    [​IMG]


    Pulled the transmission, old clutch, and flywheel on my day off in preparation for the new clutch and aluminum flywheel. Also a new rear main seal to replace the leaky one.


    [​IMG]



    And to figure out the no start issue I pulled the A3M EEC and opened it up.


    [​IMG]


    I found 2 corroded capacitors. One of which was broken and and the other was nearly broken. So now to locate some new capacitors and try to repair it. I'm not out anything if it doesn't work as I can still use it for the core charge on a new replacement.


    2-10-2018 I got the transmission back in the car.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    And I finished buttoning everything up underneath the car with re-installation of the driveshaft and exhaust.



    In the attempt to get the car running I replaced the corroded capacitors in the EEC.
    Found a broken trace that needs to be repaired.

    [​IMG]


    Got it back in the car and tried it out. Nope! Still doing the same no start and continuous running of the fuel pump.


    [​IMG]


    [video=youtube_share;ZTmf3LJQE-Y]


    Fixed the broken trace and it fired right up!
    I even got the front coil-over springs switched out for the next weight range up of 12"/150lb.
    Now to get a few miles on the clutch and it'll be ready for the track!
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2018
    broncojunkie likes this.
  9. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    I guess I skipped over it at first, but eventually found where you are running a Tremec 3550. I didn't understand how you were breaking axles and rear gears but not the t5 lol! I'll be testing the limits of my t5's here soon, as I plan on taking the 88gt and possibly the pace car to a track or two. The two closest tracks are a little over an hour way, and I don't own a trailer. So we'll see if I can grow a pair and just drive them!

    Car looks awesome, man! Keep the posts and pics coming!
     
  10. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    What kind of tires do you plan to run at the track? I found that the breakage was usually a result of the drag radials dead hooking. That's why I switched bias ply tires. The sidewalls are softer, therefore giving more cushion to absord the shock of the hit.
     
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  11. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    I have a brand new set of drag radials (Nitto n55r) but I'll be getting a set of bias ply slicks just for the track. I didn't think just the extra cushioning from a soft sidewall would help save your drivetrain, but evidently I was wrong. I got my 82gt from my brother-in-law who raced it with the factory 4 spd srod. It survived one whole season with him beating the snot out of it on Hoosier slicks. Those transmissions were notoriously weak and this car was hooking well enough to lift the front tires.
     
  12. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Not much to update; but this past Friday (5-23-2018) I swapped the drag wheels onto it and went to Test and Tune at the local 1/8 mile drag strip.
    The weather in the mid to upper 40's, and the track was still cold and fresh from not having but one other TnT day since April of 2017. So needless to say the night started off with some spinning and slow E.T.'s.
    Once a little more rubber and heat got to the track and the old rubber off my 26x10.5 ET Street R was worn off, my time slips started to improve.
    My best time of the night came from dropping my launch RPM down to only 2300rpm to help stave off the tire spin.
    Though not what I was hoping for I managed to run a 8.53 at 79.XXmph with a 1.78 60ft.
    I hope to be able to drop the times some more with a little higher launch rpm as the track improves. Maybe even as soon as the first race this coming weekend at the Annual Easter Bash.

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Well the weather was absolutely gorgeous for a full weekend of racing at Roxboro Motorsports Park 59th Annual Easter Bash. My dad, brother, and I were all there to race. But my brother was having some transmission troubles on Friday night test and tune, and decided not to run in the main bracket races.

    Us three next to my dads '82
    [​IMG]

    My brothers '90 and my '93 in the pits!
    [​IMG]



    On Saturdays (March 31, 2018) Race I ran a new best of 8.37 at 80mph with a 1.7441 60ft time. But I went out in the first round after breaking out by .0001! Yes that is correct... I went .0001 too fast against my dial-in number.

    [​IMG]


    During Sundays event we only got one time run. I didn't get a full pass as the shifter handle broke during the 1 - 2 shift. But I did get a new best 60ft time of 1.71.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Luckily I had another handle with me so I could continue. I proceeded to go to the 4th round in which I believe driver error happened and I just couldn't run the numbers and was eliminated. But I did win a little money for winning the 3rd round of competition. Basically just go my entrance fee back. But that's good enough for me. Overall a great weekend!


    [​IMG]
     
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  14. broncojunkie

    broncojunkie Active Member

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    What shifter is that? Did you just get a little excited and caught up in the adrenaline rush? Lol

    I wish we still had a track around here. There's a good car scene, but closest tracks are nearly 2 hrs away. Our local track closed a couple years ago due to mismanagement. Last I heard, it was demolished and either being turned into a housing development or medical marijuana facility.
     
  15. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    It's a Pro 5.0 shifter with (was) the Steeda Tri-ax handle. After the handle broke I replaced it with the original one that came with the shifter.

    I may have been a bit "HEAVY" handed with it. But it is all aluminum and broke at the bottom of the threads. There have been quite a few instances lately with people breaking them the same.


    The last couple of years this track was under bad management. They only ran one race last year. The annual Easter Bash. That was it. Then the entire property went up for auction back last November.

    Luckily a semi-local construction contractor purchased it and is dedicated at turning it around and making it better!
    They have already installed a 100% new timing system including scoreboards and computer software, renovated the tower and one of the concession stands, and improved some drainage. He had plans to repave the return road and the pit area. But weather has not cooperated for that. But will be done soon.

    We all look forward to continued racing and the further improvements.
     
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  16. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Not much of an update; but I did take a little time to hand polish the drag wheels on the coupe this past Friday.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Here's a little vid from this past Freaky Friday (4-27-2018) at Roxboro Motorsports Park.

    I was only able to run a 8.41 at 79.XX mph with a 1.73 60ft time for my best run. That came at the beginning of the night on my first run. The rest of the night I could only get high 1.7's 60ft times and low 8.50's E.T. I'm not quite sure if it was the track, the weather conditions, the car, or just my driving that was the cause. Maybe a combination of any or all.

    [video=youtube;RQtJ4DK585k]
     
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  18. MerleHaggard

    MerleHaggard Member

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    Really nice build man
     
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  19. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Thanks !
     
  20. Redtwilight

    Redtwilight Shinigami

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    Got a few more pieces to the puzzle for the 5 lug Cobra 4 wheel disc conversion.

    Found a decent deal on a slightly used (only 60 miles) '93 Cobra brake booster and master cylinder.

    [​IMG]

    Also included in the deal were m/c to proportioning block lines for 86 and earlier Mustangs. I probably will end up letting them go.


    And I got a package in from Maximum Motorsports full of more brake lines.
    Included are the braided front soft lines for Fox to SN95 calipers, Wilwood proportioning valve, master cylinder to stock prop. valve hard lines, and stock proportioning valve eliminator fittings.
    Also pictured are spacers for the Fox ball joint to SN95 spindle.

    [​IMG]

    Also on order is the rear hard lines and braided flex lines for Fox to SN95 calipers.

    So all that is left to get are the rear axles, front rotors, and 5 lug drag wheels.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2018

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