What camshaft should i use?

[Clark302]

I have a fresh bottom end build from machine shop. 302. ICON forged dish pistons and Eagle H beam rods. Stock crank. I have the GT40 heads and intake. I'm going to use an On3 performance turbo kit. I'd like to get an "off the shelf" cam shaft but with so many to choose from its hard to make my decision. So I'm calling out to the Mustang community. I'll probably be using stock valves with upgraded valve springs, and haven't chose a set of rocker arms either. I'm shooting for 400 to 450HP range on a stock block.

 

[RedFoxNY]

Any links to some similar turbo builds ? I was thinking of going this route as well

 

[Clark302]

I ended up using the F303 camshaft

 

[347HO]

I suggest the Anderson sbf cam for "boost".

A little odd here though... an N/A sbf 302 makes that power. Just curious for the low power goal.

 

[Clark302]

I'm using a stock block, the power goal is to keep it under 500hp so it doesn't split. I just want it to be super reliable street car, with rare trips to the strip. Like maybe once a year.

 

[347HO]

Yeah... I'm still waiting for my stock sbf 302 to 347, 700hp 650lb/tq to split.
Been 6 years now.
I think it has sosomething to do with parts selection, machining and attention to details.

 

[broncojunkie]

What about over-revving, poor balancing, and detonation? It might even be caused by more than one thing. Everyone has theories.
347HO, have you done any mods to help it survive? Curious to see what all you have done that might be helping.

 

[Clark302]

I have a microsquirt kit so far for tuning. I haven't installed the engine yet. I just ordered the front suspension and Chromoly k frame. The crank, flywheel, and balancer were all balanced by the machine shop. What else can I do before installation to protect my engine?

 

[347HO]

RPM is controlled digitally with my ignition.
Due to the ludicrous acceleration of my rotating assembly, I have a shift light 2700 rpm before valve train instability on the 1 - 2, and no pre light on 3 - 4, 4 - 5.

My setup is neutral balanced.

My ignition is 100% digital with hall affect pickup.

I believe superior block machining,
Accurate rotating assembly balancing,
Rotating assembly lightening and rotational inertia,
Accurate ignition throughout rpm band,
Accurate fuel flow idle to wot/rpm,
Oiling control,
Coolant control
And most important... Not pushing setup beyond intended engineering.

I realize my setup is beyond some peoples budget, however, it took over ten years of saving, budgeting and handcrafting parts to be acceptable to me. I can tell you countless stories of people trying to make power "cheap", and spending thousands in the end only to have 400hp and no brakes or suspension to control it.

 

[347HO]

I have a microsquirt kit so far for tuning. I haven't installed the engine yet. I just ordered the front suspension and Chromoly k frame. The crank, flywheel, and balancer were all balanced by the machine shop. What else can I do before installation to protect my engine?

MSquirt is a great foundation.
Nice choice.

 

[Clark302]

 

[347HO]

MSquirt is a great foundation.
Nice choice.

So, what else was balanced as a set?

 

[Clark302]

Honestly, I'm not sure.

 

[347HO]

Honestly, I'm not sure.

You should have received a printed paper with the before and after weights (in grams), results.
It is part of the fee you paid.

Also, the rods, caps, bolts, pistons, pins
Should have been balanced as a set.
At least a pair (minimum).

I see the builder has installed cap studs... This is good!
What oil have they suggested for break in and continued use?

 

[Clark302]

I didn't get that sheet with my paperwork, I know he sent the crank out and had it ground. I had to get special bearings because of it. He had all of those parts sent with it.