Quad Shocks?

[whiteponygirl89]

I was doing a little research and it looks KYB is a good brand for rear shocks/quad shocks.

Now to the actual question, it seems a lot of people just eliminate quad shocks.
I can get KYB rear shocks and quad shocks for $100 plus shipping.
Should I just replace them all?
My car is still all stock but haven't replaced struts or shocks for at least 20 years.

A lot of people say to get Koni shocks, but if I don't drive it like I stole it,
is it really necessary to get those? I don't need the "racing" kind, I am not that kind of driver.
I found they are not that bad in price. About $120 for a rear set of Koni shocks.

If I get Koni shocks should I just eliminate the quad shocks?

I just put on new tires last year. Probably don't even have 500 miles on them yet.
My girl sits in the stable and I drive it every other week or so.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[broncojunkie]

The quad shocks were just Ford's way of treating a symptom (wheel hop) instead of the cause. The cause being the flimsy control arms and torque boxes. If you don't plan on hard launches, a new pair of quad shocks will work fine. If you want to fix the weak link in the rear suspension, then there are a few different ways to do it...all of which eliminates the quad shocks. The quickest and easiest would be to replace the lower control arms with a stronger aftermarket set. While the upper control arms also add to the weakness, they connect to the torque boxes. If you replace the upper control arms with stiffer aftermarket ones, you're likely to damage the torque boxes, which isn't easy to fix. If you feel you must replace the upper control arms, install some torque box reinforcements first. In most cases, for street-only cars, a good set of aftermarket lowers with the stock uppers will be fine. The next step would be upper and lower torque box reinforcments (welded-in), aftermarket upper and lower control arms, and remove the quad shocks.

Back before aftermarket control arms were available, owners would just box-in their factory control arms with a piece of steel or sheet metal 1/8" or better. I've ran those before and they seemed to work just as well as basic aftermarket.

 

[whiteponygirl89]

The quad shocks were just Ford's way of treating a symptom (wheel hop) instead of the cause. The cause being the flimsy control arms and torque boxes. If you don't plan on hard launches, a new pair of quad shocks will work fine. If you want to fix the weak link in the rear suspension, then there are a few different ways to do it...all of which eliminates the quad shocks. The quickest and easiest would be to replace the lower control arms with a stronger aftermarket set. While the upper control arms also add to the weakness, they connect to the torque boxes. If you replace the upper control arms with stiffer aftermarket ones, you're likely to damage the torque boxes, which isn't easy to fix. If you feel you must replace the upper control arms, install some torque box reinforcements first. In most cases, for street-only cars, a good set of aftermarket lowers with the stock uppers will be fine. The next step would be upper and lower torque box reinforcments (welded-in), aftermarket upper and lower control arms, and remove the quad shocks.

Back before aftermarket control arms were available, owners would just box-in their factory control arms with a piece of steel or sheet metal 1/8" or better. I've ran those before and they seemed to work just as well as basic aftermarket.

Thanks, but the question I was asking was more so about BYD vs. Koni. I get "on it" a little but mostly just drive it like a Mustang, lol. Needing to replace struts and shocks, they are OLD. Thoughts?

 

[broncojunkie]

KYB will be fine. Personally, I'm not very sensitive to the minor differences in feel between brands. The adjustable shocks or drag shocks, I can definitely tell what they are. I recently put cheap Motorcraft shocks in my 79 and KYB in my 88GT. Any differences I can feel, are more than likely due to the tires and springs. Having said that, both were major improvements over the worn-out old crusty shocks that were on them when I purchased the cars. I wouldn't hesitate to go with the KYB, if I were you.

 

[whiteponygirl89]

Thanks for the advice

 

[Dadshoes]

I have another question on the quad shock subject.
The rims on the rear of my 92 GT are 17" the tires are 275 40 ZR17. But the tires are probably not the problem. There is an 8mm spacer between the drum and rim. Even with this spacer, there is not enough room to fit the horizontal shock. So it only has vertical shocks. My question is; How does this affect the drivability, and is this a bad thing for the suspension?
I really appreciate your help with my questions.

 

[whiteponygirl89]

I have another question on the quad shock subject.
The rims on the rear of my 92 GT are 17" the tires are 275 40 ZR17. But the tires are probably not the problem. There is an 8mm spacer between the drum and rim. Even with this spacer, there is not enough room to fit the horizontal shock. So it only has vertical shocks. My question is; How does this affect the drivability, and is this a bad thing for the suspension?
I really appreciate your help with my questions.

Not sure about that. My car is about 95% original. So mine will just replace easily. Bought shocks, quad shocks, struts/strut mounts and it will all go on a week from Wednesday. Hubby doesn't feel like doing it so going to pay the mechanic to do it. He said shocks weren't really bad but definitely need struts. Looking forward to "maybe" a difference in the ride. I put on brand new BF Goodrich last year and put my turbines back on. I really didn't like the pony rims I had on it after all. Fingers crossed for a good outcome.

 

[Dadshoes]

I haven't replaced the shocks or struts on this Mustang, but I have replaced them on pickups in the past. I think you will be able to feel the difference immediately, and it will be a big difference. Enjoy!

 

[whiteponygirl89]

Tomorrow is the day! Going in for struts, strut mounts, rear shocks and quad shocks. Hubby decided he didn't want to mess with it.
Kind of excited, lol.

 

[broncojunkie]

Well? Did you get it back yet? Wondering how it turned out.

 

[whiteponygirl89]

Yay! She's back in the stable, it's done. Pic of old, not original like I thought but definitely needed replacing. Sensatrac shocks-crap, think the quads were original. Monroematic struts-more crap. I guess I did notice a nicer ride but couldn't really get on it because, good news and bad news. The good news, it can all be fixed. The bad news is, there is a list! Had the mechanic look it over as it would be on a lift, Better to know, than not.

1. First thing that needs to be done before I drive it again is the inner tie rod, ready to come apart!
2. Rear Diff cover needs a new gasket-leaking.
3. Harmonic balancer needs replaced.
4. Power steering pump and pressure line needs replaced (been leaking for a while).
5. Water pump leaking needs replaced and thermostat housing-now I know why the radiator doesn't stay full!

Hoping hubby can do some of this, well he could do all but most likely will only do a couple.
Definitely need the tie rod done, pronto. Have an appt in 2 weeks, then alignment.
Probably won't need to drive it anyway, but still.
It's time to stop neglecting her.
I get so many compliments when I drive it but that's not the reason.
I just LOVE this car! Ever since I saw a white GT when I was in my late teens.
I have had 6 Mustangs counting this one in my years of driving.
My first car was a 74.
The rest were all Fox body. One was a Capri but still a Fox body.
I threw a few other cars in between like a Fiero-that was so fun to drive!
I had a Grand Prix, the newer kind with the handles that break on the door.
I had a Mazda Rx7, mid 90's, it was a nice car too bud always end up going
back to my Mustangs that is why I am the whiteponygirl
I am looking into getting my original driver's seat fixed, has that "lean".
The seat that is in it is from a convertible and it's just not right,
I want my original seat back. Had the seats redone about 15 years ago
with stock fabric. Hopefully, it won't cost another kidney.
Keep you posted as I get things fixed.

 

[broncojunkie]

That's not too bad of a list. The inner tie rod is pretty easy...along with the rear diff cover. Don't let that harmonic balancer go. You're lucky he found it! When they come apart, they'll destroy your engine. I've seen it happen several times over the years.

The water pump could be a problem. The bolts tend to corrode internally and snap off. Whoever changes it out better set aside the better part of a weekend lol! You all may get lucky. Let's hope so!

It sounds like you've had a nice collection over the years! I actually have an 82 capri right now. I'm itching to start fixing it up, but I have to get the 79 cobra done first. It's the wife's car and I got rid of her 88gt lol!

 

[whiteponygirl89]

I don't have any pics of my Capri. It was yellow and had those funky rims.
Factory sunroof. It was an automatic, loved that car too.
Traded it in for an 84 6cyl white convertible, white with navy top.
My list:
74 black auto
81 or 82 yellow Capri auto
84 white convertible auto
91 black notchback auto
88 white gt convert 5 spd
89 white gt auto- current

How easy? Tie Rod? Have you done any?
Hubby might attempt it.
Water pump-NO! Hubby will not be attempting.
Only because he had an 89 LX convert (got rid of it) and
he tried to do it and bolts broke, cost him $1500 to fix!
Will probably have the mechanic do harmonic balancer, maybe.
Recommend a brand for the balancer? They are about $50 on Rockauto

 

[broncojunkie]

It's been years since I've replaced an inner tie rod, but my buddy just did one on his 88 (my old car) and he said it took about 30 minutes, start to finish. He said no problems whatsoever.

The water pump shouldn't be too bad even if bolts break. There are a few tricks to getting them out and minimizing broken bolts. You can start by backing out the bolts about 1/8 turn prior to removing it. The idea is to put a little pressure on the bolts and then driving the car a few times. The heat cycles may help break them loose. You can also use a 3/8 impact driver and work the bolts in both directions, instead of just grabbing with a wrench/socket and backing them out. The impact and back & forth pressure may break them loose. Heat from a propane torch can help too, but I didn't have much luck. If he ends up breaking a bolt or two, once the water pump and timing cover is removed, the rest of the bolt will sometimes come right out. They tend to rust/seize inside the aluminum timing cover, not so much in the block. If they are sized at the threads (in the block), a nut welded to what's left of the bolt will usually help extract it more easily. I've been through it several times lol! I've never had to drill and retap, which would be the worst case scenario.

As for the balancer, a good performance aftermarket one is always the best choice. The oem style used some time of elastomer stuff to bond the outer and inner sections. That stuff deteriorates over time, usually due to heat. Unfortunately, they are more expensive. The good news is that the oem style will still work fine, as long as you make it part of your regular maintenance program to inspect it.

The balancer is easy to replace. Remove radiator and fan. There should be plenty of room for a harmonic balancer puller. They're fairly cheap or you can rent it for free.

 

[whiteponygirl89]

It's been years since I've replaced an inner tie rod, but my buddy just did one on his 88 (my old car) and he said it took about 30 minutes, start to finish. He said no problems whatsoever.

The water pump shouldn't be too bad even if bolts break. There are a few tricks to getting them out and minimizing broken bolts. You can start by backing out the bolts about 1/8 turn prior to removing it. The idea is to put a little pressure on the bolts and then driving the car a few times. The heat cycles may help break them loose. You can also use a 3/8 impact driver and work the bolts in both directions, instead of just grabbing with a wrench/socket and backing them out. The impact and back & forth pressure may break them loose. Heat from a propane torch can help too, but I didn't have much luck. If he ends up breaking a bolt or two, once the water pump and timing cover is removed, the rest of the bolt will sometimes come right out. They tend to rust/seize inside the aluminum timing cover, not so much in the block. If they are sized at the threads (in the block), a nut welded to what's left of the bolt will usually help extract it more easily. I've been through it several times lol! I've never had to drill and retap, which would be the worst case scenario.

As for the balancer, a good performance aftermarket one is always the best choice. The oem style used some time of elastomer stuff to bond the outer and inner sections. That stuff deteriorates over time, usually due to heat. Unfortunately, they are more expensive. The good news is that the oem style will still work fine, as long as you make it part of your regular maintenance program to inspect it.

The balancer is easy to replace. Remove radiator and fan. There should be plenty of room for a harmonic balancer puller. They're fairly cheap or you can rent it for free.

Thanks for all the info!
I'm sure hubby will have an idea of what parts to get.
But will pass along about the elastomer issues.
He works at a parts store and one of his customers is probably going to be
doing several things for us.
Water pump
Harmonic balancer
Tie rod end and happy dance, my seat!