Paint job prices?

[Underwater rugby]

Got a 1983 GT hatchback, red with black hood scoop, center of hood, and lower side skirts.Any advice on what a decent
2 tone paint job should cost? The newer cars have a clear coat, might be good to add clear?

 

[347HO]

Cost is dependant on tupe of paint and process.
Single stage
2 stage
3 stage

If you want metallics, pearls, ghosts

How much body work will be needed prior to paint

What finish you want...

 

[broncojunkie]

Paint and body work prices are all over the map. They're also very expensive to have done right...especially during the current covid economy. If you find someone to do it cheap (buddies excluded), run.

Several years ago, I had my 88gt painted. He did the bodywork (a couple rust spots, dings, scratches, etc) and painted the jambs, but not the engine bay. I painted the engine bay myself after repairing the frame rail/shock tower rust. It was a 2-tone. Everything was dismantled (bumpers, body kit, moulding, doors) except the glass. It ended up costing about $6k. Looking back, I think it was probably a good deal. A shop would have charged twice that. This guy was a professional painter doing side jobs. You can see pics of this in my build thread.

 

[broncojunkie]

Also, a buddy painted my 79 pace car. Again, I painted the engine bay myself. He didn't do the jambs or remove anything other than trim and sail panels, so basically just freshened up the outside. With paint and supplies, I ended up paying around $2k. That's dirt cheap. It's not a professional paint job, by any means...but a respectable 10-footer. I also talked him into doing the decal kit and paid him a few hundred (can't recall exact price). He really didn't want to do it, but he's a pro window tint guy and I trusted him more than anyone. Decals turned out great. I have a build thread on that one, too. Plenty of pics.

 

[Underwater rugby]

Cost is dependant on tupe of paint and process.
Single stage
2 stage
3 stage

If you want metallics, pearls, ghosts

How much body work will be needed prior to paint

What finish you want...

I used to drive a 74 Mercury Comet GT in the 80s with saddle bronze metallic paint.I think it was a single stage, they had small cans of touch up paint.Only 7 years old and already had some rust spots on body.I think a candy apple red would be 3 stage, with silver or yellow over primer , then red, then clear?Would look good, but probably too expensive.I did some small spots with metal patch, putty, and metallic paint, looked ok but not showroom quality.Used some rattle can red paint for where door molding fell off years ago, it's peeling off now.Used black plastic paint for side mirror, it faded away after a few years.

 

[347HO]

I did 120hours body work myself just taking out the door dings and small dents from falling objects.
I charge 110.00 an hour.
I used 1 gallon, Akzo Nobel, Sikkens 2 stage paint and 1 gallon Silkens auto clear.
That by itself is well over $2500.00
I put 80 hours cutting and buffing, then a nice finish polishing.
This went on a race car.
If it was a show car... Ugh. Put another 250 hours into it and more clear.

 

[broncojunkie]

347ho, I have a question for you. Why is it that single stage is cheaper than basecoat? At least, that's what I'm seeing. I understand basecoat is probably easier to spray than single stage, but ss and like it would be more durable. Reason I'm asking is I'll be buying paint for my 79 cobra here soon. I'm thinking about going with a single stage as a basecoat and finishing with a high-solids clear. Thoughts?

 

[347HO]

Single stage is fast, covers well, and normally don't clear, dries smooth.
Almost all auto manufacturers use this.
The "affect" is usually minimal with single stage.

With 2 stage, the apply times are critical and shooting clear on curves and edges can be tricky.
The "affect" pops tho, and can even change color on the side tones.

3 stage IMO is for non drivers and show cars. Never really be able to duplicate.

Did i answer your question?.. I hope

 

[broncojunkie]

I actually lied in my last post. I am shopping for paint, but I was considering ss with a clear topcoat for my 82 capri, not my 79. The 79 is getting a true bc/cc, because it will be a metallic. I know ss doesn't work quite as well with metallics. Also, cutting ss lessens the metallic effect even more. My 82 will have ss because it will be a solid red (no metallics).

Anyway, I was actually just curious as to why a ss is less expensive than a basecoat. I'm not referring to bc/cc. I understand the clear adds an additional cost. What I'm finding is that, for instance, a gallon of ss may cost $150 while a gallon of basecoat is $250 (just arbitrary numbers here). I'm even taking into consideration that ss requires a hardener and reducer while basecoat requires only reducer (no hardener). Other than the fact that ss is a little more difficult to spray, it seems to me that it would be more durable than basecoat.

So my idea is to use a ss with 2k clear for more durability and to save money. Am I overlooking an advantage to regular bc/cc? (Again, I understand basecoat is easier to spray than ss and works better with metallics/pearls).

 

[347HO]

Depending on the clear, you may finish with less cost... Yes i agree.
You may want to ask your paint dealer for the best non-bake set if you aren't using a heated booth. Also ask for nozzle size for that paint set unless you have a handle on air pressure, overlap and distance control using the same gun for both.

 

[broncojunkie]

I have different guns, including one I plan to use specifically for clear (1.3 tip hte). I have the same gun in a 1.5 and similar hvlp in 1.3. I also have a couple cheap primer guns in 1.4, 1.7, & 2.0.

The tech sheets are very helpful. I have to remind myself to refer to them when shopping around. Most of my questions are already answered. I just need to open the pdf! For instance, I was wondering about the ss/cc deal (windows, cure time, and whether or not it would need to cure and then sand before clear). Everything I needed to know was covered right there in the tech sheet.

I need to get some more time behind the gun, but I do understand the art of atomization, temps, and flow. It's just a matter of putting it in practice. I'll be posting a bunch on here when I get to that point. Thanks for the info!