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Door adjustment after replacing hinge pins and bushings.

Foxnotch28

New Member
Well, last night I replaced the hinge pins and bushings on the driver's side door of my fox. Unfortunately, the door now closes a little high in the rear so I now need to pull the front fender to adjust the hinges. A few people have recommended just removing the inner fender plastic to access the bolts on the hinges which seems like a good idea, but I worry about having enough room to get to the bolts. Has anybody had success doing this? Any notes you can give that might save me some trouble would be greatly appreciated.
 

Foxnotch28

New Member
I've actually already done this part of the process. Now the door closes a little high in the rear. Only way to correct it is by adjusting the hinges a bit. I'm told you loosen the bolts and adjust the door up or down, then tighten the bolts back up. I was thinking taking just the inner fender plastic out to access the bolts would be better because that keeps the fender on the car so I can make sure everything is staying aligned from the fenders to the door. If I have to take the fender off, I will. Just hoping to not have to go that route.
 

ALMOST STOCK

Active Member
Staff member
When I hid the wires in my engine bay years ago I need to remove the fenders which was something I was dreading and like yourself I was also worried about keeping my fenders and door aligned so what I did was to put about a 6 inch piece of masking tape from the fender across to the door in a couple of places and I di the same at the bottom and top of the fender. Then I took a thin line sharpie and drew a line across the tape and then took a single edge razor blade and cut the masking tape into between the door and fender and the cowl and top of the fender and I did the same to the bottom tape and then removed the fender
When I got ready to re-install the fender I had aligning points that I could go back to. By just barely letting the masking tape touch and making sure that the sharpie lines were exactly lined up when I started tighten the bolts back up. It worked out perfectly and I had the same margin and gap that I had before I remove the fender.
You can see in this picture the masking tape and the black sharpie line and what I'm trying to explain.

masking tape.JPG
 

Foxnotch28

New Member
ALMOST STOCK, you are always there to help me. I really appreciate it. As it turns out, I was able to get my door adjusted by just pulling the inner fender/wheel well and removing the 2 screws that hold the cruise control vacuum servo in place. This gave me plenty of access to the bolts and I got the door adjusted. Shuts like a dream now. Thing is, I may still end up having to pull the fender. The car slightly hit something or something hit it during the previous owner's tenure right on the front of the fender. I'm no body guy, but I think I can straighten it all out. Kinda want to put a bra on to cover it up. Downside on that is LeBra recommends not installing a bra on a car that has been repainted. Mine was repainted silver....and not a real high quality job either. I worry that the paint might chip or flake off around the edge of the bra. At least if they were going to repaint the car, they should have left it the original black.
 

ALMOST STOCK

Active Member
Staff member
I'm glad to hear that everything worked out for you by just pulling the inner fender/wheel well and removing the 2 screws that hold the cruise control vacuum servo in place.
 

Blown347

Moderator
Staff member
Mine had a bra when I bought it. I wouldn't recommend it.

+1 I wouldn't go the bra route.

A little tip for popping dents, it won't always save it, but use a heat gun on the paint (in moderation of course) and it can keep the paint from cracking, chipping or leaving a kink when you pop the dent. Just go a little at a time, adding heat before each hit and it should turn out fine.
 

Foxnotch28

New Member
Good tip on the pain Blown347.

broncojunkie, I'm not too keen on installing the bra after seeing what happened to yours. I read the care instructions and LeBra recommends removing the bra before washing the car and washing each separately every 2 weeks. Also have to wait for the bra to dry before reinstalling. Sounds like too much care for my liking. Plus this paint is going to hate a bra, I just know it.
 

Foxnotch28

New Member
After getting the door adjusted I noticed that the lower rear corner of the door is slightly bent outward. I've been told this is fairly common with a car that had a sagging door -which mine was sagging pretty bad until the hinge pin and bushing swap. Been thinking about getting a pair of clamp pliers with about a 3-4 inch flange on them and trying to bend the door corner back inward a bit. Anybody tried it?
 

Blown347

Moderator
Staff member
After getting the door adjusted I noticed that the lower rear corner of the door is slightly bent outward. I've been told this is fairly common with a car that had a sagging door -which mine was sagging pretty bad until the hinge pin and bushing swap. Been thinking about getting a pair of clamp pliers with about a 3-4 inch flange on them and trying to bend the door corner back inward a bit. Anybody tried it?
I'd recommend a block and hammer. Just wrap a wood block in a couple microfiber towels and smack it with a hammer to slowly bend it back. Best way to know you won't crimp the metal or scratch the paint
 
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