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Mustang 5.0 Bolts, Nuts and Screws list.

John2002

Guest
: ) I have a hard time starting a thread so I just get a question out in and old one....I fumbled around in the garage Tuesday cause I took the day off waiting for a plumber....never start a bathroom project on Mondays after 5 pm.... I read a few more "what to check" on other web site about idle problem on 5.0's.....wanting not to spend anymore time or money on just about every symptom out there I took off the TFI that came with the new distributor 4 years ago and put on my 5 year old Ford TFI and the car held idle.....blocked both front tires, set the parking brake and started the car and waited till it got to 190 degrees and moved the trans into drive.....15 plus minutes later it was still running...... but changing the ACT sensor was the best direction I got....since replacing the injectors and taking off what was left of the smog plumbing I could not start it with one turn of the ignition....bad weather here till Monday ( 90 plus temps or rain) so taking it out and getting a real road test in will have to wait....I'm still hoping to get back to trusting the car to get to the car shows around town.....I have never carried any tools in the car since we got it and I don't want to be a worry wort about it when we do get out for the day.....
 

John2002

Guest
Back to square one....still died at a red light last night....been up and down youtube with people with videos of idle issues ...but all the videos I have seen still have the TFI on the distributor and they say it won't restart till after a long cool down. Mine fires right back up without any problems......will relocating the TFI help???? I found (McCullyRacingMotors) a site that has a long harness and a heat sink that you bolt the TFI to, then find spot on the passenger fender or radiator support to fasten the heat sink and TFI to....like I said....mine car has never failed to start after it shuts down....
 

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broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
How's your pcv valve? When my 88 was dying, I finally figured out I had knocked mine loose when I changed the throttle body. It wasn't easy to find the vacuum leak, since the pcv is tucked down deep on the very back of the lower intake.
 

John2002

Guest
It was a forgotten soldier when I got it all back together the first time but its were it should be and I cleaned it with carb cleaner before we took it out Sunday...my buddy asked the same thing.... I read most of that lawsuit back in the 90's about the TFI failing in hot hot cities but I have had this distributor and its TFI for about 4 years....I'm going try a small piece of tin ( 4X6 but thinner thin a playing card ) and somehow get it between the TFI and distributor and curl it up in front of the TFI so it can draw some of the heat away...Its in my mind right now and I'm thinking of all the different ways I can bend it and drill holes through it....LOL....I guess I'll never stop....LOL...Rain here the next few days so I guess I got time to think....
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Yes, the tfi can be problematic. You probably know already, but the parts stores can test them. Have them bench tested 4 or 5 times in a row. Sometimes they'll pass when cool, but fail after a few tests (once they heat up).
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Oh, and they also sell a small tool to remove them. Just a few bucks but sure does come in handy in tight places!
 

John2002

Guest
Yes. my new 160 degree thermostat came today and Ill take the radiator off and do light power wish backward on the fins just to see if I can get it a bit cleaner...my heat sink didn't work...I guess there was some magnetical interference between the TFI and the distributor ...it fit like I thought up but the car would only crank...no spark.......I have that little twist off 4.5 mm socket...I alway re-grease my TFI every year....now I'll just remove the distributor now and do it....no chance of loosing those tiny azz screws.....take just 3 minutes that way....lol...
 

John2002

Guest
Strike 4.....after getting the radiator out and pover washing it and using compressed air to clean the A/C condenser and swapping out thermostats and filling with new anti freeze.....still did the idle drop after it warmed up (right at 160) and then shut off, I re-started it and heard a lifter start knocking. ... I also noticed I had no oil pressure again....shut it off and called a shop to come get it...he should be able to get to it early Monday.....
 

John2002

Guest
Found 5 bad lifters, and the rod connecting the dist to the oil pump is missing....it maybe in the old pan ...the have to pull the engine to find out ....
Should one out more info on Thursday.......
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Well, that's no good. ARP oil pump shafts are worth their weight in gold. If you hold one side by side with an oem shaft, you'll see the difference immediately. Once they find your old one, post up a pick. I'm curious to see what it looks like. At this point, you may want to start looking for a good deal on a new motor. Around here, you can find good used 302's for cheap. You might even consider going with a 351W, as long as you can find a good used "roller" motor for a decent price. The money you save from having to do a complete rebuild on your old motor could go toward a new cam and maybe some heads.
 

John2002

Guest
I haven't heard from the shop yet...he said maybe today with getting the engine out.....did this shaft fail on its own or did I caused it by taking the dist out a half dozen times in the last few week???
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
I haven't heard from the shop yet...he said maybe today with getting the engine out.....did this shaft fail on its own or did I caused it by taking the dist out a half dozen times in the last few week???
Good question. The condition of the shaft should tell you immediately, though.
 

John2002

Guest
I think I'm on the right track now...LOL ..I know...after about 3 months and over 1400 dollars...I had to take it in 5 weeks ago ...I was just getting it back together after putting in the 160 degree thermostat...tried to get it up to temp to see if the idle will fail...it did ... the engine died...I re-started it and heard lifters tapping like crazy.....Well that when I said "F' It" got in my other car and drove over to a speed shop my wife noticed that just opened and told the guy what I did....he called a tow truck and got the car about 2 hours later... he didn't call back till Tuesday with the bad news...I trashed about 5 lifter because I somehow caused that shaft off the distributor that drives the oil pump to drop and fall to the bottom of the oil pan....well they had to remove the motor to begin the repairs....after about 2 weeks they replace all the lifter, high flow oil pump, new double roller timing chain and gears plus a few other items that you should do while you are in there...Well with that all said and done I still had Issues with the idle...I found another shop where I drove the car over to last Friday...I think we are on the right track now...he worked on it that Saturday and found red RTV sealant on the EGR ( that was done at the dealership before I bought it in 2009) it ran better after he cleaned that up but he wasn't able to scan for codes because he didn't have a working scanner...."what luck" I told him because I have one...but he wasn't able to keep the car for another 3 days so I said l'd bring them both back on Friday.... He also found that one of spindle valves was bent (???) and it wasn't closing properly ..so he fixed that and ran the scanner...now he wants to get the o2's and plugs out because he is sure that the injectors have been dumping fuel the whole time...I'm not sure how or when I knocked off that shaft or if the EGR was my problem since day one in 2009, but when I do get it back I'm taking a few days of just driving it....with the crappy summer we have had and the time it hasn't been in my garage I really have not missed it!!!!
 

stang.garage

New Member
I’ve been putting this list together for the past 10-12 years. I hope it helps someone if they’re looking for a bolt size or need a replacement bolt. Most of the sizes are from either my 89 5.0 Mustang when I work on it or from the 89 Mustang Shop Manual.
5 years later…but does anyone have the size for the bolts that attach the rear ac compressor bracket to the rear ps pump bracket?
 

Paladin

New Member
I’ve been putting this list together for the past 10-12 years. I hope it helps someone if they’re looking for a bolt size or need a replacement bolt. Most of the sizes are from either my 89 5.0 Mustang when I work on it or from the 89 Mustang Shop Manual.



Engine Related:

Fan Pulley on the water pump
5/16-24 x ¾” with lock washers

Fan to Fan Clutch 5/16 X 18 X ½” with lock washers

Water pump bolt with treaded stud 5/16” X 18 ----3/8” X16 length 3-7/16” and 5”

Intake bolts =Lower intake to head.... 5/16 X 18 X 2" they are all the same.

Upper Intake to Lower Intake =4 corner bolts are 5/16 x 1 5/8 and the 2 middle bolts are 5/16 x 6. Size and Thread pitch 5/16-18 in.

Smog in back of head /Thermactor Plug 5/8-11

External thread is 5/8 x 11Internal thread is 7/16 x 14

Or if you rather put a plate over that hole instead of the Thermactor Plug the threaded hole beside it uses a 7/16-14 bolt.
OR----5/8-11 x 3/4" bolts

Bolt that goes thru cross over pipe into back of heads= 5/16" x 1 1/2" course thread.

SPARK Plug Thread.. 14mm x 1.25

2 Different Head bolt lengths--- ARP’s are 3-15/16" and 2-7/16"

Head Bolt --- 7/16 by 14.

Header Stud Bolt at Collector—Stock—7/16 X 14 pitch Total length 2-3/4” under stud length 2”
90-95
M12 x 1-3/4 - 7/16 x 70m Ford part #N804013-S2

Crankshaft Bolt/Harmonic Balancer 5/8 with 18 pitch thread, RH
Holds Balancer to Crank Shaft) 15/16” Socket --- 24 mm works also.

4 Crank Pulley bolts are ------3/8-16 x 1"

Low Oil Sensor Plug-----20mm 1.5 thread pitch

Ignition Module = (5.5mm) Deep Thin Wall ¼” drive
Or? the TFI module bolt is M4 x 10mm screw. The stock ones have a 6mm hex head with an 8mm (OD) washer under the head. The bore diameter in the TFI plastic housing is 9mm.

Oil Pan SOCKET--- 9/16” 6 point

Oil Pan Plug -----1/2 X 20 MM

Oil Pan to Block---- 18 bolts ¼”- 20 x 7/16"--- 4 bolts 5/16"- 18 x 9/16"

Oil pump- 3/8" -16 x 1"

Oil pickup tube - 5/16" -18 x .75"

Header Bolts at block --- (stock) 3/8" x 16 x ¾”

H pipe to Catback stock--- 7/16 – 14

Fuel Rail bolts
= 1/4 - 20 X 3/4"

Tensioner Pulley Bolt= left hand thread 12mm

Tensioner Pulley Nut =left handed thread18mm socket/wrench

Throttle Cable to Bracket =… 9 mm screw

Valve Cover bolts =¼ x 20 x 1”

Starter bolt =… 3/8 -16 X 1.5

TFI module 6-32 x3/4" common screw

O2 bung plug size= 18mm

Oxygen Sensor Thread Size=-- 18mm x 1.5

Schrader Valve thread pitch= 1/16 NPT
as per the autometer website:
model #3275
1/16" NPTF Male to -4AN
Male mechanical gauge adapter for fuel rail

model #3280
1/16" NPTF Male to 1/8" NPT
Female adapter for fuel rail
For use with Electric Fuel Pressure gauges

TPS = M4 x 0.70 pitch x 25mm length - Phillips Pan Head

Stock Intake Torx Head Plaque screws = 8-32 x .62 taper seat machine screw

IAC= Flanged head M 6 X 1.0 X 25mm

T-stat housing bolts= 5/16-18 x 1 3/4" for top left bolt
5/16-18 x 1 1/4" for bottom right bolt, both bolts use split lock washers.

CAMSHAFT Thrust Plate/ could also be called retainer plate= 1/4X20 X 3/4”

CAM Bolt = 3/8 X 16 x 1 ½-- washer thickness 7/32

EFI fuel rail = 1/4" -20 x .75"

Distributor hold down = 5/16" -18 x .75"

Motor Mount to Block--- 7/16" x 14 x 7/8”

Motor Mount Nut 14mm x 2.0 (pitch)

Sensors on Intake --- 3/8" NPT

Flywheel bolts 7/16-20 thread.

Thermostat housing Trick flow Track heat intake= 5/16-18 there are 2 bolts (1) bolt 1” (the other) 1-1/ 2”

Radiator Bracket Bolt = Metric8 x1.25

Alternator Bracket Bolts
Quantity 2: Alternator Bracket to block 3/8-16x2”
Quantity 1: Alternator Bracket to head 7/16-14x1-3/4”
7/16-14 x5" (goes front-to-back, lower outer hole), also needs compression sleeve in the front hole.
3/8-16 x1 1/4" (bolt reversed… goes back-to-front, upper inner hole)




Suspension Related



All the control arm bolts and nuts are 18 mm
. The shock bolt head is 15 mm and the nut is 18 mm. The sway bar bolts are 15 mm. The drive shaft bolts are 12 mm 12 point.

Drive shaft bolts--- 12 pt 12 mm X 1”

Rear Diff cover=--Stock5/16 X18 X3/4” … w/ TA cover X 1-1/4 long

Bearing Cap bolt--- 1/2-13

Lower STRUT NUTS=--- Upper is 13/16” Bottom is 21mm 24mm if they're stock.

TOP STRUT NUT OEM ----- M16 x 2.00

Rear Shock (axle housing mounting bolts) =-- 12mm x 1.75 x 70mm or you can use a 1/2" x 1.50" long bolt.

Quad shock axle housing mounting bolts(12mm x 1.75 x 70mm)

Rear shock axle housing mounting bolts (12mm x 1.75 x 70mm)

Upper control arm axle housing bolts (12mm x 1.75 x 80mm)

Lower control arm axle housing bolts (12mm x 1.75 x 100mm)

Front Lower Control Arms 16mm X 4-5/8” socket =-- 21 mm on the bolts and a 24mm on the nuts.

Rear Lower Control Arms 16 mm x 4”
Bolt size = 12mm
Length from bottom of flange = 4 inches
Threads length = 1 7/8 inches
Head size = 18mm
High strength - Class = 10.9

K Member Bolts
4ea M-14 2.0 Pitch x 95mm
4ea M-12 1.75 Pitch x 25mm class 10.9

Jam Nuts on Tie Rod Ends --- 9/16"-18

Ball Joint Castle Nut =---5/8 x 18

Front Wheel Bearing Castle Nut = 1 1/8”

Rear Sway Bar bolt thread size and length= (1991- 1993)M10 x 1.50 x 33mm
Grade 10.9 (1989) 3/8-16 X 1-1/4

Front Sway Bar Bolt= M10 X 1.5 X 38 MM Grade 10.9

Steering rack bolts=5 ½” x ½”

Steering shaft bolt=M10 x 1.0 with 11mm 12 point head and 1.20" under head length

Stock Hood Bolts = M8x1.25x20mm

Tie rod jam nut= 5/8-16 thread.

Outer tie rod castle nut= 1/2X 20

K-Member Bolts =
M16 x 2.0 x 117.5

Stock Cotter pin Front Wheel Bearing = 3/16 x 2”



Transmission & Bellhousing Related

Transmissions to Bellhousing
---12mm x 40mm X 1.75 pitch. Ford# N605935-S2

Motor to Bellhousing=--- 7/16 X 14 thread pitch 1.5” for 302/351W

Bellhousing to block bolts are all SAE 7/16-14. The top two are 1 7/8" long and the other 4 are 2 1/4" long.

Transmission Mount to Transmission= 1/2" X 13 X 1-1/2” long.

Bellhousing to spacer plate (block plate) = 5/16 X 18 x 1" long

Clutch Fork Cover Bolt Size----6mm x1.0 with 8.8 Hex Head ( or it's nothing much more than a small course-thread sheet metal screw with an 8mm head).

Shifter Bolt to Trans =- M8 x 1.25 x 20mm.

AOD Shifter nut = M8 x 1.25 X 20MM

Shift knob thread= 12mm x 1.75

Speedometer bolt to Trans T-5=--- 1/4-20 x 3/4". Also has a split ring lock washer

Vehicle Speed Sensor= 1/4 X 20 X 3/4

Thread Pitch for T5 Neutral Safety Switch Hole =16mm x 1.5

Pressure plate bolt =8 mm x 1.25…. (Wrench Dia.13mm)



MISC:


Seat Bolts and Nut=
Bracket to floor = M10x1.5 -- Seat to bracket = M8x1.25

Seatbelt – T50 Torx head

Door Striker =-- T50

Door Striker Thread= -- 7/16"-14

Door Hinge Bolt= -- 5/16- 18 pitch X 1 1/4

Rear Hatch Striker = T50

Rear Hatch Striker Thread= 7/16 x 1 thread.

Rear Seat Belt =---T50

Arm rest (under plastic plugs) 6mm x 1.0

Wheel Stud Bolts=---1/2” X 20--- Knurl Diameter—0.615in

Lug Nuts=------1/2”-20 R

Head light adjuster bolt/ screw = 4mm or 5/32

Plastic piece on the male side of the hatch latch OD= 11/16” ID= 1/2"

Airbag bolts M6 x 1.0 x 10mm long

Proportioning valve to the front right brake caliper =7/16-24

Front Bumper Rivets = 3/16”

Door Rivets are 1/4”

Power steering stud size =
7/16-20

Rear License Plate Screw #14 with self cutting threads

¼ Window Nuts= M4 x 0.7

Fuel Tank strap bolt = Head is 13 MM

Hood Latch = M7 X 1.25 X 22.225 ******** 7/8” length

Ground Strap weaved …back of head=3/8 16 X 1/2.

Oil pressure sender extension =1/4 NPT

Throttle Body Studs = 5/16-18 X 4 1/8”

Smog Pump Top 2 bolts to rubber hose to Air Bypass = m6 15mm long

Battery hold down bolt =6mm x 1.0 x 55m

Ground bolt at Timing Cover =3/8 -18 x 1"

Stock Cotter pin Front Wheel Bearing = 3/16 x 2”
What size it the bolt that holds the clutch cable to the frame? My car is missing that bolt and I was wondering what I needed to purchase before tapping and drilling the hole or using a self tapping screw.
 
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