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Ignition Module........again!

whiteponygirl89

whiteponygirl89

Member
Anyone got an idea as to why my ignition module keeps going out, at least once a year?
It's now gotten to the point where I have an extra module (and the tool) in the glove box so
my husband, as mad as he will be, can come to rescue me and put the old one in so I can get home.
I have gotten to the point where I don't like to go too far from the house, maybe down a couple of miles
to the bank or grocery store.
I don't drive it but maybe once a month, I know, I know!
I just purchased a "heavy duty" one and I drove it for the second time, and when I got home and pulled into the garage
it cut completely out and then kept running. Sounds silly but it's like time just stopped for a moment.
I don't want to get stuck again like a while back.
ANY help would be appreciated as to why or what might contribute to it.
TIA!
 
broncojunkie

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Where are you getting the modules? I've had my share of issues with them and have read several horror stories. I've heard that they're all made by the same one or two manufacturers these days. Several years ago, I picked up a cheap one at Autozone (in a pinch). Of course, it was bad. They reluctantly returned it after insisting it wasn't the problem. I made them bench test the new one they were giving me and it failed. They had 3 in stock and all 3 failed. They apologized after that. I went to NAPA and got one. It was more expensive but really didn't look any different than the one from Autozone. Several yrs later and it's still going strong.

Are you still running your original distributor? Coil? One thing I've found is that one bad ignition part can affect other ignition parts. For instance, old plugs and wires can increase resistance and put stress on your coil. If the distributor is the original, I would suggest replacing it. I've had good luck with the Napa Gold distributors. They used to be reasonably priced and the quality was good, compared to the average parts store brands.

I also hear that heat kills them. In fact, Ford eventually moved the module to the inner fender area on trucks and used a separate heat sink. Technically, I believe you can modify yours the same way. But since you don't really use it as a daily driver, I'd just make sure you use heat grease on it. I can't remember what it's called..."heat sink compound" maybe? I don't believe they sell it at the parts stores. They'll just give you dielectric grease... good for keeping parts from corroding, but does nothing for heat displacement.

Hope this helps!
 
whiteponygirl89

whiteponygirl89

Member
Well, I guess my husband will get to deal with it today. The battery was dead on the Suburban so he had to take my car.
Guess he will have to figure it out if it breaks because I have no way to get to him and I am the only one on AAA.
It's supposed to pour today and my girl is out in the weather, ugh!!!
If anything happens to my car, someone will not be easy to be around!
At least it did what it did to me while he was trying to jump the burb.
So, I proved I am not imagining things, lol.

In the past, he has got modules at PepBoys, they don't sell parts anymore.
I ordered this one off Amazon, supposed to be better, heavy-duty, blah blah blah.
I checked Napa, it's 3X as much as what I paid.
But, I might give it a shot.
I believe it is the original distributor, not sure about the coil (think it may have been replaced).
This just sucks, I am down 2 cars and it's all we got.
Is this the Heat compound you are talking about?
Is there any difference between them? There is a bunch on Amazon to choose from.
Best Buy had some called: CORSAIR - XTM50 High Performance Thermal Paste
Amazon has this and others:
 
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whiteponygirl89

whiteponygirl89

Member
Ok, this is what just happened. Husband said it was fine for him. 4 miles to work, 4 miles back home.
We had to go get a battery for the burb.
Started spitting a little but was ok. Leaving the store and it started cutting out.
Came to a stop and it died. Started back up, now I just want to get home.
2 miles to go, lol. Stepped on it a little and started cutting out.
Started to sweet talked her and I made it home.
Got the burb started so I could get mine back in the garage.
Pulled in and it died.
Started back up and the tach is jumping-same thing it did when I broke down about 6 months ago.
Pretty sure it's the module, but hubby might replace the coil too.
Going to get one from Napa broncojunkie.
And getting some of that thermal sink. Hope it fixes it.
 
whiteponygirl89

whiteponygirl89

Member
Ok, went with a module from Advanced Auto/Carquest. Hubby works there and if something goes wrong again, he can swap it out;)
I couldn't do that if I got it at Napa and it was about the same price.
Work smarter, not harder.
I did get the heat sink/thermal gel too. I got it at Best Buy.
He went ahead and changed the coil and it looks like it was original or at least it was replaced with a Ford OE part. If it is original, 33 years, and 220,000 miles, it was a good one, lol. We are keeping it just because it may still be good and always a good backup.
Hubby said when it cools down some more in a few weeks, he will do my plugs/wires and rear differential gasket (leaking).
I guess the dinners I make almost every night is keeping him happy.:angelic:
 
I

IFIGOULUZ

New Member
whiteponygirl89 said:
Anyone got an idea as to why my ignition module keeps going out, at least once a year?
It's now gotten to the point where I have an extra module (and the tool) in the glove box so
my husband, as mad as he will be, can come to rescue me and put the old one in so I can get home.
I have gotten to the point where I don't like to go too far from the house, maybe down a couple of miles
to the bank or grocery store.
I don't drive it but maybe once a month, I know, I know!
I just purchased a "heavy duty" one and I drove it for the second time, and when I got home and pulled into the garage
it cut completely out and then kept running. Sounds silly but it's like time just stopped for a moment.
I don't want to get stuck again like a while back.
ANY help would be appreciated as to why or what might contribute to it.
TIA!
Click to expand...
Replace/upgrade your distributor and coil if they are original.
 
Blueknights75

Blueknights75

Active Member
Highly recommend going all Motorcraft parts on distributor and ignition. And when replacing the distributor make sure you are using the right gear material…ie steel or aluminum. Fixed a lot of my issues getting rid of that MSD ignition and distributor parts.
 
turnsignalblinking

turnsignalblinking

New Member
Tach needle jumping is a sign of stator assembly inside distributor failing. You can replace this part and keep your original distributor if there's not too much play in the shaft. New ignition modules seem to be questionable at best. I bought the expensive blue streak... failed at 9,000 miles. Replaced with a basic part from United. Never heard of them, but can it be any worse? Good luck, and let us know how it works out.
 
whiteponygirl89

whiteponygirl89

Member
turnsignalblinking said:
Tach needle jumping is a sign of stator assembly inside distributor failing. You can replace this part and keep your original distributor if there's not too much play in the shaft. New ignition modules seem to be questionable at best. I bought the expensive blue streak... failed at 9,000 miles. Replaced with a basic part from United. Never heard of them, but can it be any worse? Good luck, and let us know how it works out.
Click to expand...
If it gets to that point, we will look into it. So far so good. I have driven it a couple of times now since my husband replaced the ignition module and coil. Both parts game from the auto parts store he works at so if there is another failure he can just switch them out. I couldn't do that if I bought them online somewhere or at another parts store. So whatever we paid, in the long run, will be worth it.
 
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