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1997 SSP restoration/cruise-mobile

CoastieRon

New Member
As with most things I do, I like to document progress on projects I undertake, and this is no different. This week, I purchased a 1987 LX 5.0 with an SSP verified VIN and Buck tag. The body itself is pretty damn straight, and as far as I can tell, the only modification on this car (that wasn't by the Utah Highway Patrol) is the cat back exhaust. So here I am with a blank slate, and the urge to keep it as stock looking as possible on the outside. It's been a long time since I last drove a manual, but it came back to me pretty quick, and I was soon rowing the gears.

before purchase.jpg


After the initial shake down cruise, I started a list of all the issues I saw with the car (being 34 years old and all...)

  1. Suspension is old and loose.
  2. Body roll is ridiculous
  3. Speedo is bouncy AF
  4. Brakes feel a little on the soft side
  5. Windshield and rear glass both leak
  6. Interior needs to be gutted.
  7. The car boots in ways I haven't felt in years.
So I have my initial marching orders. Car gets dropped off for new windshield and a reseal in the rear tonight.

I have a ton of stuff on order and due for delivery in the next few weeks - first and foremost the suspension. Hopefully this weekend I can do a complete flush of the brake system, cooling system, oil change and rear end gear oil change. I've already started taking out the interior pieces, but need to do more ordering. I do believe I am going to "murder" the interior, and am most definitely putting decent sound in there.

If you have any tips and tricks (especially in regards to the motor), I'm all ears.

Thank you,

Ron
 

CoastieRon

New Member
Well, the Mustang finally made it into the garage at the house last night, and I wasted no time ripping apart the interior.


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All in all, not bad at all. Just the one crusty spot. I'm going to clean it up, wire brush the rust, give a quick once over of all the surfaces of the floor pan and then cover it with POR15. Once that cures, it's getting sound mat treatment, and then the new carpet gets laid down.

I'm going to remove all of the plastics, scrub them up, then dye them black. The rear package tray is getting removed, and I will re-carpet that black as well.
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
Doesn't look bad at all! As for that crack in the floor pan, I always figured if you didn't find cracks in the floors on these cars, you weren't looking hard enough lol!
 

347HO

Active Member
You have a really nice project!
Good luck, keep posting progress please.

Do you mig or tig? Looks like some patch panels will be in order.
 

CoastieRon

New Member
This weekend, I got a lot further than I thought I would. My cousin welded the crack up, and I covered that with POR and seam sealer. Laid down sound deadening in the trunk and driver area, then put in the Hurst short throw. Cleaned up some sketchy wiring, made my head unit harness, and solder extended some HVAC wiring for the relocation kit.

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This dye impressed the hell out of me. Everything is getting done with it. This is 3 coats......
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broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
I'm really interested in that dye. I did a search and only found info for restoring leather. Would you happen to have a good link or more info on dying plastics?
 

CoastieRon

New Member
I'm really interested in that dye. I did a search and only found info for restoring leather. Would you happen to have a good link or more info on dying plastics?
This is exactly what I am using.


It takes about 4 to five coats, but it dries within 15 minutes.

Black is the most versatile color. Use it to restore color and condition aniline leather, finished leather, vinyl upholstery, rubber and plastics on auto interiors and exteriors, and even shoes, jackets, or purses.
 
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