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wheelstand

beeje40

New Member
I'm looking for options on how to minimize my stang pulling the front wheels? I'm running coilovers and single adjustable shocks on all 4 corners with both upper and lower rear control arms adjustable, wheelstand is cool and helps traction but I know that it uses up my hp and torque, which in turn is slowing me down and making me inconsistent. Any info would be appreciated
 

broncojunkie

Well-Known Member
I'm looking for options on how to minimize my stang pulling the front wheels? I'm running coilovers and single adjustable shocks on all 4 corners with both upper and lower rear control arms adjustable, wheelstand is cool and helps traction but I know that it uses up my hp and torque, which in turn is slowing me down and making me inconsistent. Any info would be appreciated
Can't help you with the wheel stand issue, sorry...I'm just trying to get mine driveable, lol! Just wanted to welcome you to the forum. I know there are some guys on here with some serious hp, though, so hopefully they'll chime in.

By the way....what gear ratio are you running?
 

beeje40

New Member
Ty, I'm running 4.30s, c4 with 4500 stall, 347cu. also want to specify that rear control arms are adjustable but are mounted in factory reforced mounting
 

Blown347

Moderator
Staff member
The easiest way is to tighten down the front struts to have less travel. If you have strange 10 ways, just go one click at a time and make a pass. You should have someone video your pass an tighten them down until your shocks fully extend on launch but don't pick the wheels up. If that still isn't controlling it or it unloads the tires you may need to install some travel limiters
 

beeje40

New Member
I started to do the struts and when I got to 3 I was told not to go any farther because of possible tire unloading, but it's pulling front tires 6 to 8 inches with 1.39 to 1.42 60 foot, so you think I will be safe going more?
 

Blown347

Moderator
Staff member
I started to do the struts and when I got to 3 I was told not to go any farther because of possible tire unloading, but it's pulling front tires 6 to 8 inches with 1.39 to 1.42 60 foot, so you think I will be safe going more?

It all depends on just how well the car transfers weight. That's a pretty vague blanket statement. I'd say keep tightening them and test. If it unloads the tires just go back the other direction.

If it will only hook while pulling the wheels the next step would be travel limiters, which will allow you to leave them loose enough to get weight transfer but stop them short of picking up
 

beeje40

New Member
Thanks for the info. I can still soften rear shocks or if I really need more weight transfer I can move engine to the rear slots on k member. I also run suspension "loose", think if I tightened it (more friction) to slow rate of lift in front but not hinder my travel would work?
 

Blown347

Moderator
Staff member
Thanks for the info. I can still soften rear shocks or if I really need more weight transfer I can move engine to the rear slots on k member. I also run suspension "loose", think if I tightened it (more friction) to slow rate of lift in front but not hinder my travel would work?
That's more of a fine adjustment. Assuming that your instant center is good it shouldn't be too hard to transfer weight without picking up the wheels. Try shocks first, then maybe if theyre still coming up slightly that could be something to keep the wheels down vice a couple inches up. One thing to note though, if you're looking for consistency on several different tracks, setting up the car not to pull the wheels may require adjustments from track to track depending on prep.

People like to say that wheel stands aren't consistent, but if you control it with a wheelie bar I believe it's way more consistent then running the suspension on the edge, at least when traveling and experiencing various levels of prep and track surface
 

Blown347

Moderator
Staff member
Another note, people get this backwards, and think that loosening the rear shock compression will help weight transfer, but it's actually a little opposite.

When you launch the car, the shock extends to hit the tires, not compresses. Having too loose of a compression will cause the car to hit the tires, hook for that split second, then the shock will compress and absorb the weight transfer and unload the tires.
 

theericreedo

New Member
would adding rear tire pressure help?
I don't know for sure just throwing the thought out there, or rear lower control arm relocation brackets.
 

347HO

Active Member
Study up on "instant center"
Then measure what you have.
Every setup wants something different so giving you my setup dimensions won't help.
Once you get your suspension angles where you want to start... dialing in your shocks and and springs will be less painful.
Rear tire size and pressures can be used for fine tuning.
Good luck...
Took me damn near a year to dial in my last street car, but it ran a consistant, reliable 9.30 in the 1320, n/a
 
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