Hey Guys I am new to this forum and I have a 92 2.3 4 cylinder. The issue I am having is that at idle it will run fine for a while then all of the sudden it will completely stall out or if not it will almost die and barely fire back up. From what I have read do far it could possibly be something with the ignition switch or ignition module. Anyone else had this type of issue?
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Engine Cutting Off
- Thread starter Silas
- Start date
broncojunkie
Well-Known Member
I don't know much about the 2.3, but I do know about the ignition switch. Just pull the plastic off from around your column... the lower piece below the ignition lock cylinder. You'll see the switch with wires coming out of the plastic side. The other side of the switch is pot metal. The metal part has tabs that fold around the plastic side to hold the 2 together. The tabs work loose and the two halves will start to separate. Just look at it and see if yours is separating.
wbrockstar
Qwik Enuff 4 Me
If the problem seems to occur once the engine reaches operating temp,the ect sensor could be suspect. Test it while the engine is cold then start the engine and let it run for 10-15 minutes and test it again. To test,just disconnect its wiring harness and touch the red lead of a multimeter to one of the sensor terminals and touch the black lead to the other sensor terminal, with the meter set to read ohms.The ohms value should match the chart below for the temp listed.The ect sensor is mounted in the lower intake,directly under the upper intake,unfortunately,so its probably a pain to get to.
The ignition module, bolted to the distributor,is another likely suspect for your issue,especially if the problems are only occurring when the engine is hot.The module can be removed and tested at Autozone.If it fails the test,replace the module with a Ford Motorcraft part.A parts store brand module will go bad within a few months time.Make sure you buy the special thermal compound that you spread on the modules rear side.Otherwise youll cook the module. RockAuto is a great source for dealer parts at very reasonable prices.
Another component to check is your fuel pressure regulator.Check it while the engine is hot.Let it idle,remove the vacuum hose from it and make sure the hose doesnt have fuel coming out of it & doesnt smell like fuel.Make sure the regulator vacuum port doesnt have fuel coming out of it either. If fuel is present at either part,the regulator is bad.
The pip sensor,mounted inside the distributor, is another possible candidate for your issue. If the pip is bad,is usually rears its ugly head after the engine has reached operating temp. Heat soak makes it quit working. Stalling, misfiring, no starts, hard starts & backfiring are typical symptoms.When the pip sensor pulse is lost,youll lose spark and injector pulse.If you remove the spout plug then attempt a startup and it starts, thats a indication the pip is bad.
The ignition switch in 79-93 models are very well known for going bad.For access to the ignition switch,remove the trim from around the steering column and lower dash,so you can get to the switch quickly for testing, as soon as the engine stalls.Once it stalls & fails to restart,test the following wires by backprobing the harness,where the wires enter the harness plug::
2 Yellow wires should have 12volts:
key off/engine off
key on/engine off
key on/engine on
key in start
If no= the fusible link coming from the starter relay,thats inline with the yellow wires, is blown or those wires are open.
If yes= move to the next wire.
1 Red/Green wire should have 12volts:
key on/engine off
key on/engine on
key in start
If no= ignition switch is bad
If yes= move to the next wire.
1 Pink/Black wire should have 12volts:
key in start only
If no= ignition switch is bad
If the ignition switch is suspect, the dash gauges and warning lights will cut out too,just like the engine. The eec relay,injectors,solenoids,actuators & fuel pump relay will lose power too.
Try this during the no start condition:
Hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank the engine and if it starts sounding like its getting ready to start,release the pedal.If it starts, this indicates a fuel system component is leaking fuel into the combustion chamber or the ect sensor is suspect.
The ignition module, bolted to the distributor,is another likely suspect for your issue,especially if the problems are only occurring when the engine is hot.The module can be removed and tested at Autozone.If it fails the test,replace the module with a Ford Motorcraft part.A parts store brand module will go bad within a few months time.Make sure you buy the special thermal compound that you spread on the modules rear side.Otherwise youll cook the module. RockAuto is a great source for dealer parts at very reasonable prices.
Another component to check is your fuel pressure regulator.Check it while the engine is hot.Let it idle,remove the vacuum hose from it and make sure the hose doesnt have fuel coming out of it & doesnt smell like fuel.Make sure the regulator vacuum port doesnt have fuel coming out of it either. If fuel is present at either part,the regulator is bad.
The pip sensor,mounted inside the distributor, is another possible candidate for your issue. If the pip is bad,is usually rears its ugly head after the engine has reached operating temp. Heat soak makes it quit working. Stalling, misfiring, no starts, hard starts & backfiring are typical symptoms.When the pip sensor pulse is lost,youll lose spark and injector pulse.If you remove the spout plug then attempt a startup and it starts, thats a indication the pip is bad.
The ignition switch in 79-93 models are very well known for going bad.For access to the ignition switch,remove the trim from around the steering column and lower dash,so you can get to the switch quickly for testing, as soon as the engine stalls.Once it stalls & fails to restart,test the following wires by backprobing the harness,where the wires enter the harness plug::
2 Yellow wires should have 12volts:
key off/engine off
key on/engine off
key on/engine on
key in start
If no= the fusible link coming from the starter relay,thats inline with the yellow wires, is blown or those wires are open.
If yes= move to the next wire.
1 Red/Green wire should have 12volts:
key on/engine off
key on/engine on
key in start
If no= ignition switch is bad
If yes= move to the next wire.
1 Pink/Black wire should have 12volts:
key in start only
If no= ignition switch is bad
If the ignition switch is suspect, the dash gauges and warning lights will cut out too,just like the engine. The eec relay,injectors,solenoids,actuators & fuel pump relay will lose power too.
Try this during the no start condition:
Hold the gas pedal to the floor while you crank the engine and if it starts sounding like its getting ready to start,release the pedal.If it starts, this indicates a fuel system component is leaking fuel into the combustion chamber or the ect sensor is suspect.
