89 mustang won't run help plz

[89lx5.0]

Ok guys I'm new to the forum so any help much appreciated. So I just got my 89 lx 5.0 and supposed to be all new built motor. Guy says it ran hot but it was all checked by machine shop and rebuilt. Has e303 cam 351 heads, gt40 intake with spacer. Bigger throttle body and eye spacer. I've tried and tried to crank her and it just slightly hits and nothing. A few times I've had the pedal to the floor and it took a while but it crank and ran for a minute. Then when it will crank up it doesn't really want to stay running till it's warm. It has fuel and spark and I'm just stumped. I'm relatively new to the 5.0 but always loved a mustang. Any help will be much appreciated guys!!!

 

[John2002]

Sounds like it not timed right??? Check the plugs to see if they are on the right way??? Do you hear the fuel pump built up pressure when you turn the key to "ON"??? The picture of mine is about 5 year old, the placement of that TFI Module should be pointing about 5 o'colck if your looking staright down. The TFI module that large bar connected by a wire loom just below the bottom of the distributor. I'd try there first, there is a fuel pump kill switch in the rear left part of the car just behind the tail light inside the trunck of the car. Prees that buttom down, it if doen't "CLICK" it is good.

 

[broncojunkie]

You say you checked for spark and fuel, which is good. But did you check to see if you were getting "enough" spark and fuel? If it will sometimes start and run when warmed up, it should be getting both...but you need to determine how much. Easiest to check is probably fuel pressure. Could be an issue with the fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, or in a case like mine a few months ago...the tank had some gunk in it and the sock (on the fuel pump) was clogged.

Best way to check fuel pressure is with a gauge. You can buy a basic one for around $30...maybe less. You can also use the free rental deal at the parts stores. Easy to do. Just follow directions and see what kind of fuel pressure you have. If you don't have a gauge available, see if you have any luck getting it started with a little starting fluid sprayed down the intake. If it fires right up and immediately dies or idles down, you might suspect low fuel pressure.

As for spark, you can check quickly like most people do it. Just pull a plug wire and hold it near a metal ground while you buddy cranks the starter. If you see a spark, you know it's working...sorta. Yes, there's a spark, buy you already know you're at least getting some spark because it starts occasionally. Get you a spark tester. Last one I bought was around $10, I think. It will allow you to see what the spark looks like. Are you getting a consistent spark every time, or is it only occasionally hitting? It will tell you the intensity, as well. They make some with a gauge built in so you can see how hot the spark is.

Also, it might be helpful to know that some ignition parts such as coils, control modules, pip sensors, etc tend to work better when cold and then start breaking down with heat (after driving/running for a while.) Not saying you should rule them out, but just another clue to keep in mind.

If everything in the spark/fuel systems check out good, you can check the timing. Although, in my experience, timing issues usually have some backfiring or firing through the intake symptoms. If you have spark and fuel, those are going to ignite something eventually...regardless of whether the timing is off!

If all of that stuff check out ok, then it's probably time for a compression and/or leak-down test. That would actually make sense, the way you describe it. Some compression issues can improve temporarily as the engine internals heat up and expand, which helps to seal off the combustion chamber.

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[89lx5.0]

Thank you guys so much. I've got the timing pretty much dead on and spark is very good and as far as fuel pressure I do need to get a tester from auto parts store. On another note the compression issue may be rite because I did notice a little bit of coolant seeping from the head gasket. Not too bad but enough to probably let compression pass by. Also it may not be anything to do with it but while it ran the radiator cap was buzzing every 10 seconds or so. Thank guys lots of info already!!!

 

[John2002]

I'm no motor head and I would never do what some guys do to their motors but there is always more things going wrong when someone says they "had" that done to the motor...Hopefully the problem with your motor is simple but there are lots of simple problems we don't even know about in a motor when someone else had their hands in it...Its a real learning game after that, there are so many things even in that 25 year old computer controlled engine that need to run right after all the mods. I went through just about all the oem engine controls down to the O2's before my "CHECK ENGINE" light stopped coming on...My buddy had to get his friends OBD testor to solve my problem...

 

[89lx5.0]

I hear what your saying so I'm Gona have to go over this whole thing to find out lol. Wish me luck guys I'm trying.

 

[John2002]

Good luck, and find someone with a 25 year old OBD testor....lol... Hey Mr. Peabody, set the way back machine to 1989....I took off the cats last year and added a BBK X-pipe and SR CAI and that did lots for the exhaust sound and performance of the engine...

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

Ok guys I'm new to the forum so any help much appreciated. So I just got my 89 lx 5.0 and supposed to be all new built motor. Guy says it ran hot but it was all checked by machine shop and rebuilt. Has e303 cam 351 heads, gt40 intake with spacer. Bigger throttle body and eye spacer. I've tried and tried to crank her and it just slightly hits and nothing. A few times I've had the pedal to the floor and it took a while but it crank and ran for a minute. Then when it will crank up it doesn't really want to stay running till it's warm. It has fuel and spark and I'm just stumped. I'm relatively new to the 5.0 but always loved a mustang. Any help will be much appreciated guys!!!

Sounds exactly like a vacuum leak to me.
Have you tried dumping the codes?

 

[89lx5.0]

Tried what lol

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

Tried what lol

Oops ........ Tried dumping the codes ?

 

[Blown347]

All that has been said is great advice, but you said you saw some coolant coming from the head gasket !?!?!? If that's true you have a serious problem and it needs to be remedied. Compression leaks, coolant in the combustion chamber and serious damage could take place if that's the case. You should never see ANY fluid from a head gasket, EVER. You can't treat it like a seeping oil pan gasket and say "oh it's just a little"


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[89lx5.0]

Ok guys after some tests and hard look over I've come to the conclusion I beleive. I did a compression test on all cylinders and #1 was the highest at 110 psi. The others all fell below 60psi and I also found that the radiator has a fuel smell to it but the oil has very little coolant in it. Come to find out that the heads were not torqued to spec and in result I beleive it seeped through and I'm Gona torque them and see if it works then if it works out ill tear her down to change head gaskets but I'm going to torque them first and do a compression check first. Wish me luck guys

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

Sounds like you're on the right track... good luck.

 

[89lx5.0]

Retorqued the heads just to check and cylinder one went to 150psi cold and the rest went up 10-20psi. So I'm almost down to the heads and then all the prep and cleaning and reassemble. Hope this works

 

[89lx5.0]

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

I see you finally got it figured out.

 

[89lx5.0]

Yep, that side was full of water and the other side wasn't really bad at all. I guess from me trying to crank it so much it pushed water into the exhaust too lol.

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

Either a very bad head gasket or water got in when you pulled the head. Either way you can see what your problem was.

 

[89lx5.0]

Yea it's gotta be the gasket cause it had water in there before the head came off. When I loosened the bolts water started dropping out the side of the head down the block

 

[ALMOST STOCK]

When ever you remove the heads water/antifreeze will always go into the piston holes so that doesn't surprise me.

"If" it's a head gasket does your dipstick have a milky foam around it, or do you see a milky foam under the radiator cap?